Re: A/C question

Impossible. All vehicles sold in the US since 1993 use R134a. Either your truck is older, or you are mistaken as to the refrigerant.

neither of the 2 >shops I trust has any left to re-charge the system, but one still has >the equipment to recover and re-use the R-12.

A shop that does not possess recovery equippment is not qualified to do A/C repairs. Also, it cannot legally attempt refrigeration system repairs. It can do electrical A/C work.

The A/C worked last >week after having it to one of the shops and they jumped the >compressor to test it for operation, it worked but they didn't want to >go farther.

This means that they are smart enough to stay away from work that they are not qualified to do.

The A/C worked when I went to pick the truck up, so I was >happy. > >2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the >pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! >Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that >pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice >and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this >mean the pressure switch is bad

That is one possibility. There are others.

and I can take this to the shop with >the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch?

You can do whatever you wish. I'd suggest that you find a shop that knows how to do A/C work. For what it's worth, the low-pressure switch should be mounted on a Schrader valve, and would not require discharging the system for replacement. A competent A/C shop would know this.

>BTW, I'm not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble >my A/C system and do a proper conversion...

Cold air costs money. How comfortable can you afford to be?

Reply to
steelwheel
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not true the switch was made in 93 and 94 some vehicles are old some are new

Reply to
Jeff

You can change the pressure switch yourself because there is a Schrader valve under the switch that prevents loss of R12 when it is unscrewed. A GM switch will outlast the aftermarket junk. Make sure you lube the o-ring on the new switch with a little oil before you screw it in. If you have a friend that knows electronics, have him install a "flyback diode" in parallel with the compressor clutch coil. A 3A, 600V (or a similar rating) rectifier diode from Radio Shack, etc. will do the job. Then your new switch will last forever since it will no longer have an arc drawn at the contacts everytime they open. The arc eventually burns up the contacts, causing the switch to fail prematurely. When you jiggle the connection, you are actually causing enough vibration to make the burned contacts connect temporarily. Sometime in the late '90's GM started putting in flyback diodes, as my '99 Silverado has one.

Randy

Reply to
Randal O'Brian

'94 was the changeover year. Most models of cars came both ways that year. So I guess not "impossible" eh?

Reply to
Steve Barker

Before you replace the pressure switch, check the metripak connector pins. These pins/connectors have a tendency to lose there spring as they age in an elevated temperature environment. You can re bend the spring clip to repair it or replace it all-together.

Cheers Martin

Reply to
Martin Riddle

Evidence? Guesses don't count.

Reply to
steelwheel

Whatever floats your boat. While you're at it, take a picture of the label on the evaporator housing that gives the refrigerant type and charge.

You didn't want to pay...correct?

Reply to
steelwheel

The evidence is under the hood of all 1994 automobiles. Start popping hoods. No one's guessing.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Call your local parts store and make up a vehicle. Say you want a price on a condenser for a 1994 whatever machine. The next question out of their mouth is going to be "is it r12 or r134a?"

Reply to
Steve Barker

Hardly. As it is sunday evening, no local parts stores are open. So, I went to the Auto Zone web site and looked up a condenser for a 1994 Jeep Wrangler. At no point did they ask about R-12.

Go ahead and make something else up. I've got time.

Reply to
steelwheel

You dont have to open the system to replace the switch! It just unscrews and there is a shrader valve that holds in the pressure, just like on your tires. It is probably just a bad connection at the switch anyway. If you move the connector and it kicks in it is most likely just the female spade terminals inside the connector that are loose. get some needle nose plyers and squeese the spades a little and try it again. If you have to you can get some spade connectors and replace the connector altogether. just cut it off and put on two female spades on the two wires and hook it back up to the low pressure switch. It doesnt matter which wire goes where. No big deal.

Reply to
Scott M

Then it looks like I've got the second 1994 with factory R-12 AC.

1994 GMC S-15 Jimmy SLE 4.3 W 4dr. Vehicle built Oct 1, 1994 BTW my 1994 Olds Ciera is R-134.

--reed

Reply to
Reed

Then your a MORON. 1994 was the change over year. I have a 94 S-Series Blazer sitting in the front yard IT HAS R-12 from the factory. The 94 S Pickups were either one depending on what part of the year they were built. Also have a 94 GEO that is R-12 as well. Maybe you better go back to school. And I know of two other 94 vehicles one is a Ford and the other is a Chrysler They are R12 also

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Read thesecond reply.

Reply to
Steve W.

That would be 'you're', not 'your', genius.

Your saying so does not prove anything. Post proof or stfu.

You believe that statements by people who can't spell constitutes proof?

Reply to
steelwheel

Autozone!! I said a parts store. Not a fokkin joke house. What a needledick.

Reply to
Steve Barker

What label?

Not the $250 for the conversion, which they said they'd have to do so they could re-charge the system to test it.

This shop is good to me, all my really major repairs go to them and they haven't done me wrong yet.

Reply to
Mike Levy

Come take a look at my truck. I INVITE you to. You'll see a nice yellow sticker on the compressor (a Harrison if it matters, OEM I believe) that states it's an R-12 compressor. No labels anywhere else stating otherwise...

Reply to
Mike Levy

Fine, I'll take a pic of my compressor when I get the chance and post a link to it. How can I prove what year my truck is, even though I know it's a 94. I don't wanna give away more info than I have to...

Reply to
Mike Levy

Just out of curiosity, Is this truck a 94 model built in 93? It will show the date built on the door sticker. Anything made in August or later is the next years model if I remember right. It could say 9/93 and be a 94 model, right?.

Reply to
Scott M

Typical invective, as expected from one who has no logical argument.

Why the interest in my penis? You're a little light in the loafers? Don't waste your time. I'm hetro.

Reply to
steelwheel

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