Ok guys I've replaced all the bad and leaking brake lines and
hoses...........at leaset all the ones i've found so far.
I tried to let gravity fill the rear brake lines until fluid came out the
back........then i filled the master cyl. again closed ever thing up but my
pedal is still very soft.???
Is there air still in the system?
also the front brake lines are fine and I never opened the lines up
.......but the master cylinder went dry from working on the rear.........did
air get into the front line??...cause I can't get the bleeders
open.......even with a pair of vice grips.................any tips
Next thing I'll do is get some one to pump the brakes and I'll bleed the
Ok .great what you said is exactly what I just did last night......and the
only thing I have to do now is check for leaks and then bleed the entire
system..........Im going to let gravity refill all the lines then hopefully
i'll have a hard petal.........with no more leaks.
I 'll let you guys know tonight..............Thanks a million
If you want to try your hand at double lap flaring, AutoZone will lend you
the correct tool for the job at no charge.
I was scared to do try it myself for the first time just a few months ago.
It was a piece of cake.
Very probably you have air in both ends of the system. If the front
bleeders are in that bad of shape I wouldn't even bother with them I
would just replace the calipers. Easier and better in the long run since
it sounds like they are probably due for a rebuild anyway. Then bleed
the system again, starting with the farthest point (usually the right
rear, then left rear, then front right and front left) DO NOT let the
master cylinder get real low while bleeding.
"bmaty" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Do yourself a favor and go buy a MIGHTYVAC. For about $30 it is a hand
operated vacuum pump for bleeding brake. Your local autoparts store should
It make the job a lot easier especially for one person. Just be careful
again not to let the master run dry.
Start at Rt Rear, Left rear, Rt Front, Left Front. Then back again to make
sure air is out.
OK guys your all great.
I replaced the broken lines..........had to put a new caliper on the front
cause i could not get the bleeder screw off........plus after trying to tap
it out there was metal everywhere.Bleeding the system i just let gravity
take its toll on the sytem then I pumped the hell out of the system over and
So any way the Brakes are now great. Thanks a bunch to everyone that
helped out.(total project cost $49 dollars versus several hundred previous
owner was going to get charged)
Now onto the Exhaust (needs entire system) and then the back shocks and this
92 cavailer (40k) will be perfect.
Im going to try and piece together a system from AUTOZONE....i fiqure that
will save me alot of cash. I've done shocks on a 92 dodge dakota so I think
i should be able to do these.
any tips would be very helpful.
--------------AGAIN THANKS ALOT
The calipers usually have the bleeder right on top and that allows
water, salt, mud, etc. to accumulate around the nipple. They are very
commonly seized and the only way for the backyard mechanic to do the
job is just replace the caliper.
One thing that has been recommended to me (although I've never had a chance to
check it out) is to put antisieze compound on the bleeder nut when you install
new calipers or wheel cylinders.
Others on this group probably can confirm if this is a good or bad idea.
I am a Millwright by trade and have been one for 31 years now. We
often use Anti-seize but it does not prevent rust it only reduces
galling. Besides, the shiny color in Anti-seize is metal dust and you
don't want it in your brakes, engines, bearings, etc. any more than a
handful of metal filings.
I got one of these just for the purpose of bleeding my brakes. I hate the
damn thing and just use my girl friend to pump the brakes - she has gotten
quite good at it. After "forever" and a bottle & a half of brake fluid, I
just had her pump the brakes and was done in 10 minutes....
It's nice for testing diaphragms & measuring vacuum though.
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