1988 Jeep Comanche clutch hydraulic fluid ?

The rattle is normally the throw out bearing which is part of the slave cylinder which normally only comes as an expensive kit that includes the master cylinder and costs about $800.00 to replace.... I did manage to just find a master for my 88 so that is all I changed. I have the rattle and now a leak in my slave cylinder. It is waiting until I can do the whole clutch or more likely sell the Jeep because I can't do my own work anymore.

They put a new clutch in and left all the old crappy slave and throw out in there???? If so, they/you got took.

Mike

ct>

so, Mike.. Are you going to get better or worse over time? Sucky to see you all messed up still. KH

Unfortunately not getting much better, just trying to learn to live with it.

Mike

Kev>

Sorry My problem is not from this main topic ,, , please respond to my first reply as new topic ,, sorry again Curtis

??????

Your clutch now works?

I don't see you replying anywhere except here and no new topic seems to be mentioned.

Mike

ct>

I had to repair one of these types of clutch slave release bearings. The previous "mechanic" had not used the pin and it's locking nut to secure the slave to the transmission. The slave would move too much and then collaspe creating no disengagement when the clutch pedal was depressed and then eventually start leaking. After I secured the new one........no more problems! Does seem weird though. lol Parts came from the dealer and did not seem like they cost $800, but I did not have to buy them! 8^)

later, dave AKA vwdoc1

I see but there is a flat flange with to bolt holes , something went there , do you think puting Dot 3 brake flid in the systen would cause the clutch to fail and should I bleed the system better ? thanks curt

My 88 Comanche had the internal slave and the same problem with the hoses being loose where they went thru the bell housing. Mine were chaffing so I wrapped some insulating foam around them them to keep the hoses from rubbing. When my slave went out, I fixed the whole issue by swapping in an AX15 and external slave assy. from a 94 YJ. That was the best fix I could imagine for that !@#$% internal slave problem. Now, if I hadn't gotten in a hurry and waited for a new throwout bearing...

AX15 ? what is that ? and I was told that the clutch was just replaced in the Comanche , I can see the master Cyl. is new , I was out of tonw for 2 years and when I got back I was going through the jeep and noticed the fluid id the master was dirty, I used a few paper towels and soaked up the dirty fluid and filled it bace with Dot 3 the two days later the clutch acks like it has air in the the system , I opened the bleeder and pumped the system clean with Dot 4 , but now don't seen to be able to fully bleed the system , should I try running a small hose from the bleeder valve to the master cylinder and try bleeding it like that ? Curt

To bleed the system you can do as you describe by just opening the bleed valve down below - but have someone standing up top to keep the master cylinder topped off. Just plain gravity will get most of it but you may want to make a pass like you would with brakes: slowly press pdela to floor and hold, open bleed valve, close bleed valve, release pedal. Make sure the mc is full before you do this - I doubt you could get two full passes without sucking air as that is a pretty high volume operation.

Since you got lots of crap in the master, you may also have a problem with that same crap holdiing a small valve in the master cylinder open a little bit. I originally put a used clutch set from a 94 YJ in mine when I swapped out the Pugeot 5-spd for the heavier AX15. It slowly turned the fluid black as you describe. I found a rebuild kit for both the master and the slave, so I took them apart a couple months back and found a big wad of built up gunk in the master cylinder. At the very end of the plunger assembly, there is a rubber plug that closes when you step down - the crap had buitl up so that it didn't close completely until you got a fair amount of pressure on it. I played a bit and cleaning the master thoroughly got it to working right again. Went ahead and put the new kit in anyway, but I have no doubt it would have worked without it, at least for a while.

Note - I replaced the internal slave with an external. You can't rebuild the internal ones

Thanks guys, I will this weekend, but with my luck probably will have to real build or replace with an external,, Mr. Honea what would you recommend as a replacement if I do have to replace the Slave ? ie. what will save me $. Thanks Curtis

Saving money and Jeeps just don't seem to go together. My transmission was ready to fall apart so I went to a rebuilder and got a rebuilt AX15 tranny, bell housing, and all clutch parts. Bell housing and clutch pieces were from a 94 YJ. Putting the original bell housing next to the 'new' one, I could have used the old one - it even had the pivot ball for the throwout arm. The actual swap to the external slave by itself actually will cost more for parts than just replacing the internal slave by itself and there are some mods you have to make to get everything bolted up to the MJ. One biggy is the throw bearing itself. AIR, the nose piece/front bearing retainer on the BA10/5 is a different diameter than the one that was used with the external slave setup. It goes on from there - you have to cut the YJ master cylinder mount ears and drill one mount hole, the YJ mc push rod is too short, and on and on. Not a small chore.

If the tranny is still in good shape (miracles do still happen ) I would just replace the throwout. If you have the tranny back/out, you might as well spend the few extra bucks - $100 or so - and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate while it's out unless that was already replaced recently. I do that out of habit: anytime the tranny comes out a new clutch goes in.

Well my transmission is a P 10 and I can't go to a external slave , to replace the hole clutch system is $300.00, think I willl go looking for a Automatic Tran. for it , thanks for the help . Curtis

I know you don't like my advise for some reason, but man you just plain got ripped off if the seller told you it has a new clutch or the mechanic screwed the job up.

I would recommend you sell the Jeep and just get an automatic if that is what you prefer. It will cost more to swap in an automatic than the 88 is worth.

Or just live with the noise. Or I would take it back and raise holy hell.

Oh and someone told you they could replace the clutch for $300.00???? Man I don't think that would cover parts, let alone labor. Is it the same mechanic?

Mike

ct>

Mike, I think $300 might cover the throwout, pressure plate, and disc

- parts only, no labor. I'm pretty sure my remanned pressure plate and disk were under $125, closer to $100. I didn't need the flywheel cut - surprisingly - which helped a lot and I didn't have to buy the internal slave/throwout so I have no idea about the cost of that.

I agree with you, tho. Something doesn't add up in this tale unless the po swapped in just a new disc and called it a clutch job. Now, that I have seen happen. Give me a decent lift or a pit and I'll pull the tranny/tc in an hour at best, say 2 to be safe. R&R clutch, slap a new throwout assembly is, ignore the flywheel surfacing and I think

Ditto Mike > I know you don't like my advise for some reason, but man you just plain

Actually I just found the Slave/throw out bearing which evidently comes together for $104.00 and a master for $60.00, I have the Pugeot 5-spd and I am told that it can't be rebuilt or converted to external Slave , so this weekend I am going to install it , Will Honea mentioned he had changed over to a AX15, I am a fairly good mechanic and should have no problem with this procedure but if someone could give me the correct procedure from the Chilton or from memory and also it looks like the Bell housing and the Trans. comes out all together I don't have a Transmission stand so I will be attempting to "wrestle" it out and back together without damaging the new Slave, any tips would be greatly appreciated. Curtis