I have a 2005 M3 with about 50K miles. The car has recently been to
the dealer for Inspection II and the following problem. The problem,
that is unsolved, occurs on days when the ambient temperature is about
20 deg F or cooler. I'll start the car and let it run for 10 to 15
seconds, back out of the driveway, go about 100 to 150 yards toward
the stop sign, during the drive I will reach 2000 to 2500 RPM, push in
the clutch and prepare to stop and then the engine will die. I'll
restart the engine and continue on my trip and everything operates
normally from that point on.
Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the engine to die?
There is a forum called E46Fanatics, where they discuss this issue. It is
not an M3-thing, it happens to almost all cars.
I wonder why you would hit 2,000 to 2,500 in 150 yards on a cold engine. I
live 8 houses from the corner and make the 1st/2nd shift in about 100 feet,
and the engine speed is barely 1,250.
In any case, your car is supposed to know that Cold Engine Start requires
more fuel than is normally needed -- cold engines should run rich. Your
issue is similar to the one Grandpa had, the choke is not working. Your car
does not have a choke, the computer simply maps more gas -- longer fuel
injection timing -- to acheive the same goal. You are describing slow
reading by a sensor.
You can have this trouble if the MAF and/or the O2 Sensors are slow. Since
these are relatively expensive items -- you can easily replace them at home,
so you don't need to take the car in -- then it is common to wait for the
Check Engine (SERVICE ENGINE SOON) light to come on before they are
replaced. The car has a Diagnostic Port where the performance of the sensors
can be seen and monitored, but the scan tools that read this kind of stuff
are at the dealership, and the diagnostic charge to pull the data exceeds
the value of knowing the data. Basically, I am saying that this is not a
fatal event -- your car is in no danger of a melt down because it stalls in
cold weather. When the sensor(s) finally fail completely, the car will still
run reasonably well, but they will throw a fault code and the Check Engine
light will come on.
You can work around this by keeping the engine speed closer to idle for
another minute or two. You don't need to sit in the driveway waiting for the
engine to warm up, you just need to short shift during the time when the car
is still half asleep. Start the car moving, hit the next gear as soon as
possible -- anything above 1,250 should be good -- then hit the next gear
too if you really need to. The trick on a cold motor is to go as fast as you
can while the engine is going as slow as possible.
No it doesn't. I've never heard of it happening to any cars. It's
obviously extraordinarily unusual. Are you drunk, Jeffy?
Because that's about the lowest RPM where you would want to upshift,
hot or cold, Jeffy. It's an M3, not a Peterbilt.
Let me guess, Jeffy, you are one of guys who is afraid of letting his
engine rev anywhere near redline.
Oh, really? FFS, you are an idiot, Jeffy.
Are you still using mid-grade gasoline in car designed for premium,
because you are "dollar driven", Jeffy?
Sorry, I have to hold your hand...
It happens to all BMW cars. It's not an M3 thing. It's a BMW thing.
No, I'm not drunk. Not that there's anything wrong with that...
My car is perfectly happy to shift at 1,500 before the end of my street of
19 homes. I don't care what the car is, in 150 yards, the next thing to do
is slow down, so the shift (ESPECIALLY WHEN COLD) can come early or simply
not be made because upshifting is a SPEEDING UP process, but at the end of
150 yards the OP needs to be thinking of slowing down. I only have 150 yards
to the end of my street, and I sometimes amd coasting around the corner in
3rd, and the car is fine -- not to mention cold.
I don't understand why you're such an idiot, Dizzy.
I nudge Red Line on occasion, but I see no point in hitting it everyday, and
certainly not every time I drive my car.
Maybe, but I had an engine with more than 250,000 miles with no major
service needed. The question is, why the rough shift? I can't say why the
rough shift, but I can say that smoother shifts come earlier, and on a cold
engine, then earlier is better if smooth is the goal.
Why the personal attacks?
My car clearly states that it takes 89 octane, which is mid-grade. I don't
know where you get the idea that my car takes premium.
Why pay for repairs when a ligher foot on the pedal will cure the issue?
Seriously, Dizzy, you are more full of shit than a Thanksgiving turkey.
Are you out of jail again, or did your boyfriend smuggle in a phone that you
I stopped reading right there, because it serves no purpose to read
Jeffy nonsense, unless I feeel like ridiculing it.
"It happens to all BMW cars." Really? It hasn't happended to mine,
in 12 years. Nor have I heard of it happening to anyone else that I
know who owns a BMW.
Perhaps you should consider that people looking for help on Internet
forums are not a true cross-section of owners, Jeffy.
THE OP SAID HIS M3 HAS THIS PROBLEM. IT IS NOT AN M3 ISSUE, IT IS A BMW
ISSUE. READ ALL OF THE F---ING WORDS YOU DICKWAD!
It's never happened to my car(s) either, but the problem that the OP has is
not unique to the M cars or the engines used in them. Any of the BMW engines
can have this problem. For Christ's f---ing sake, any of the engines used in
the 3 Series. What a moron!
I don't thrash mine (735i V8) when cold either. Fortunately mine is
garaged, so even if it is -10C outside. Nevertheless it is best not to let
the rev's go aboue 2,000rpm until the temperature gauge moves out of the
Using premium rather than regular might help.
Sadly my last BMW (740i) had the nickasil problem and cold starting became a
Herr Clayton: Surely you must realize that there's a difference
between "thrashing" and letting the engine rise above 2000 RPM when
Sure, I'll stay "light on the throttle" when the engine is cold. But
wondering why someone would "hit 2,000 to 2,500 in 150 yards on a cold
engine" is not something that any reasonable person would do!
Alright Dizzy, THINK FOR ONE MINUTE. Don't stress your brain cell, just
think for a second...
It's 150 yards from your house to the end of the street. The motor is stone
cold. You run it up to 2500rpm between your house and the stop sign, then
hit the brakes or the clutch to pull the next gear and then hit the brakes.
Really? Why would you even _want_ to do that?
There's no point in hitting that engine speed when the motor is still cold
AND the distance from Start to Stop is so short.
You, sir, are one stupid idiot. I happen to live on precisely that street,
and I have the chance to do that everytime I leave my driveway, and I can
count on one hand the number of times when I have actually done it, and none
of them were on a cold engine. None. Not any. There is absolutely no valid
reason to treat a car that way unless you give your passengers a barf bag.
So, fuck you.
This is the bottom line.
I test-drove a E92 M3, a few months back. It was the most brilliant,
awesome machine that I've ever driven. Even cruising the parking lot
at 10 MPH was an event. At speed, with the 7-speed automated manual
looking for the smallest excuse to drop a gear or two and let the M V8
rev, it was a roller-coaster ride.
By the way, get down on your knees and look underneath one. They are
better-built than normal 3-series.
If you're lucky enough to own one of these things, just suck it up and
fix it, if there's some problem.
I would seriously consider getting one myself, if it were not for A) I
already have a car 80% as good (Supra TT), and B) I'm facing the
horrific bills of a kid going to an expensive private college.
Vacuum leaks. Sticking idle control valve. Maybe even a sticky airflow
sensor although that's a distant third. Ignition issues are even possible
(but still less likely).
I'd clean the idle control valve out (might as well do the throttle while
you have the tools and the carb cleaner out too). Then I might go looking
for a vacuum leak in the cold.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
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