There isn't one. The ECU simply extends the duty cycle for the
injector. If you truely have a cold start issue, the culprit may very
well be the coolant temperature sensor. It will be located on the
thermostat housing and if memory serves me correctly it has a tan plug
body. The other one is for the temp guage. The older engines had a
cold start injector which was located up on the intake runner over the
valve cover (at least that's where I've seen them).
On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 05:44:06 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Thanks Psycho, I came to the same conclusion last night after looking
some more and reading the manual more carefully.
I had already checked that temp sensor and it was reading the proper
resistance for a cold engine.
Something suspicious that I found though is that the electrical
connector for the throttle position switch was wet, and this fluid
seems to have gotten inside the connector. I cleaned things up
reasonably well but didn't get everything back together to try
starting it yet, as I had the air filter / air meter removed for
inspection. Throttle switch checked out okay but the contacts may
have been shorted out with that fluid.
The mystery fluid looks like clean motor oil and has no real scent.
Doesn't seem to be leaking down from the throttle assembly above. I
suspect it might be spray from a leaking power steering hose but need
to check some more. Any suggestions on this fluid or the cold start
On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 04:39:05 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
What exactly is the car doing? Does it not start at all or does it run
very rough until it warms up?
The throttle position switch only reads two positions, fully closed
and fully opened. Make sure when you reinstall it that it's adjusted
properly. That may well cause start/idle issues. I doubt that the
contacts are shorted out, my sons car blew a power steering hose and
completely saturated everything under the hood and didn't mess
anything up. Drop all the information here that you can and we'll see
what we can collectively figure out. Have you checked the condition of
the cap and rotor as well as the timing belt?
The trouble is just long cranking on a cold start before the engine
fires up. Idles and runs fine otherwise.
I did clean that plug and there was some fluid inside. Once
everything was back together it started right up. A few days of
driving will be required to see if that fixed the problem though.
BTW, I didn't remove the throttle switch, just unplugged it.
I've never had the distributer cap off, and the timing belt is might
be 25,000 miles old or less. Bought the car about five years ago and
there was no record of how old the timing belt was, so the first thing
I had done was have that replaced along with the water pump.
So I am gathering that it is starting and running fine at the moment?
If not, check the cap and rotor for wear. This usually manifests
itself in a number of ways...
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 04:53:45 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
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