1975 C10 1/2 ton 350 2bbl idle speed

Recently acquired a 1975 Scottsdale, 350 2bbl. I missed working on engines, what can I say?

Know how to do most complicated things, always kind of "Shade-tree'd" simple things, like idle speed. When I acquired the truck, I replaced spark plugs (2 broken in 1/2), plug wires (1 was cut), oil pan gasket (added a gasket actually), PCV valve, breather tube and filter assembly, air filter, carb fuel filter, add-on fuel filter, etc. Idle is MUCH higher now which I attribute to un-restricted fuel flow and PCV/rebreather.

Trying to turn over a new leaf by going by the book, the book says in order to adjust idle I have to "disconnect the fuel line from the vapor canister" and "disconnect and plug the vacuum line". Realizing they don't mean just any vacuum line, they must mean either a) the other line on the vapor canister, or b) the vacuum advance line. Realizing that advance doesn't change much at IDLE, they must mean the other line on the vapor canister.

Am I right?

Thanks in advance, BT3

Reply to
BT3
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Forget the vapor line and remove vacuum advance line from distributor and plug it. It should be around 4BTC though it may call for TDC.

Reply to
TheSnoMan

ok, it's HEI but I'll remove the advance and set the idles. Thanks.

BT3

Reply to
BT3

In reading my motor manual, I see disconnect the fuel tank line from the charcoal canister. diss-connect and plug the vacuum line from the distributor. disconnect the wire from the carb solenoid and adjust idle to spec automatic idling in drive. The timing and mixture should be set first, and just to make it really fun, the air cleaner is supposed to be in place.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Well I wanted to check back in, and I saw your somewhat hilarious post (what with the air cleaner being in place and all).

I figured I'm gonna drive it with the canister vapors all the time. But I didn't want the timing to shift while I was doing that, so.....

I disconnected and plugged the vacuum line for the stove damper. Disconnected and plugged the vacuum advance. Plugged the tach into the TACH terminal. Accidentally shorted it to ground (just like the book says not to). Went to store and installed new Ignition Control Module Went back to store and installed new rotor (looked pretty bad) Went back to store and installed new housing. Went back to store and installed new coil. Noted to myself that I should not short that to ground again. Plugged TACH in again Set PARK idle to 600 RPM Set timing to 6BTDC and locked down Set DRIVE idle to 600 RPM Connected advance back up and re-installed filter and stove damper line Verified idle

Runs great. Thanks for the help. This truck is growing on me.

This weekend we do valve cover gaskets in an attempt to stopping a severe oil hemorrhage. Bought long valve cover washers to help stop future leaks (only 4 bolts on each valve cover). Any thoughts on these?

Reply to
BT3

I only repeated what three repair manuals said, a Chilton's, a GM manual for a year newer, and a Mitchell Motor manual. At least I didn't tell someone who stated the vehicle has a new electric fuel pump to check the fuel pump push rod for a drivability issue

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

I was just teasing at the fact that if the air cleaner is installed, everything needed to adjust timing and idle is no longer accessible. There is no doubt in my mind that your book said that, and I know that it is standard policy, but very difficult to do. I wasn't teasing you, I was teasing the book.

Concerning the push rod, I was simply sharing my experience. After replacing the fuel pump, filter, and moving the lines away from the engine (the dealer said the fuel was vaporizing before the throttle body), I was reduced to carrying Mapp gas to get the car started sometimes after it had run for about 10 minutes or so sometimes, up to 30 minutes other times.. It turned out to be the push rod for the fuel pump. Comparing it to a new one, it had worn almost 1/2", and by itself did not look worn. Replacing the push rod fixed it. Thought I'd share that since the certified mechanics couldn't find the problem. But again, I didn't mean to single you out and offend you by trying to help. I will refrain from sharing my experiences in the future. It's my fault, I just joined the list a few days ago and hadn't done enough research to figure out who owns the list. Now I know so I will act accordingly.

BT3

Reply to
BT3

mechanics

experiences in

Put a :) or a ;) after a funny. Remember no one can see your facial expression or hear any inclination in your voice to know when you serious, sarcastic, or joking, can only go by what is typed.

Yeah it sure is a pain to adjust the idle with the air cleaner on. Somewhere in the old tower of power tool chest is a tool that clips on the adjuster screw for most carbs and has an 8" flexible shaft. If your handy in the shop you can make one with the proper 1/4 drive socket and a length of speedometer cable core, a map gas torch and some brazing rod.

Sharing experiences is all any of us do, but in order to share relevant experiences one has to read the post being responded to. It does no good to suggest check "A" if the person looking for help has stated they have "B".

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Agreed, but I, as he, replaced the fuel pump, and the problem remained. The push rod was just an idea, and the rod did not come with the fuel pump.

Nevertheless.

BT3

Reply to
BT3

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