My grey 1998 s-10 Blazer was lost to a wreck. The new one,
green, also 4.3 engine, but fewer features. Last one ran
about 18 MPG and this one about 15 MPG. I put in some
Berryman's B-12, which hasn't done much.
What are some of the common things? Spark plugs comes to
mind. Truck has about 175,000 miles.
Today I had to put refrigerant in the AC system, there was
zero psig in there. Blows cold, but we'll see for how long.
Hope you have the proper socket to get the one behind the steering shaft.
The leaks are fairly common. The regulator assembly sits out in the open
under the plenum and gets the vacuum signal directly from inside. The
problem is that unlike an outboard mounted one you can't just pull the
vacuum line to see if it's leaking.
It causes a VERY rich mix and will actually burn out a cat/con if left
alone. Most times the leak is enough that it is just raw fuel that gets
dumped through the system. Some times a clue will show up with gas smell
in the oil.
Plugs, cap, rotor, wires (pay VERY close attention to the routing and
use a good wire set)
Plug wise I recommend Delco platinum plugs. I have seen other brands
that just don't seem to work well in GM vehicles. Weird but true.
The 97 I have will give me 20+ on the highway and about 17-18 around
home. Of course I screw that up real bad by letting it set and idle
while in FD calls. Should be able to stop that soon, won't need heat...
Oh one thing I forgot to ask, what temperature is your engine running
at? A stuck fan clutch could be cooling the engine and causing the ECM
to richen the mix. Normal should be 195-210
On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 02:36:13 -0400, Steve W. wrote:
I had a sticky thermostat on an 03 TB I6 LL8 Vortec causing the sevice
engine light to stay on. Blocked half the radiator with Plexiglas for a
few months until I was ready to replace the thermostat. If that engine
doesn't run at 210 the service light comes on and gas mileage drops from
14 in the city to 10. A stuck fan clutch would be very noticable at
higher rpm. Had an old Lincoln MKV 400 CUI that had one and it sounded
like a jet engine at 4000 RPM.
The SEL won't come on if the engine runs cold. BTDT with a 96 and a 97.
One had a bad fan clutch and the other a bad thermostat.
In both cases the mileage went down but nothing else (other than the
temp gauge reading low)
On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 16:53:12 -0400, Steve W. wrote:
Most people wouldn't know if there coolant temp was lower than normal.
Enough to increase fuel consumption. With an aluminum block the LL8
comes to operating temperature in 5 minutes or less depending on the
outside temp. Around 1 mile when it's 32> F. That's what puzzled me about
the thermostat. I'm used to them sticking open. The LL8 wouldn't warm
that fast with one that was stuck open. Or would it. When I removed it it
was closed of course. Never did try to heat the capsule up to see how far
it opened. It would have to have opened completely for the coolant temp
to be below normal in the summer. I do recall a heat wave we had of
temperatures in the 90's for a week or so. The SEL went out during then
as the coolant temp reached 210. Anything below say 85 and the temp never
reached 210. Evidently the thermostat was jumping from closed to wide
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