Adding gauges to older truck

"Andy Crabtree" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Most every auto parts store in the country carries gauge sets. They come with brackets to mount under the dash, or the in thing these days on the pillar post of the windshield, they come with instructions for installing them, and they come in a variety prices. And this is a case where price indicates quality. I rather like Stewart-Warner gauges, and prefer mechanical gauges to electronic ones. Obviously the gauge for the alternators performance is going to be electric, you have two choices, an amp meter gauge, or a voltage gauge. Voltage is the easiest install with the least potential for disaster as it can be tapped into any wire that's hot when the ignition is in the on position. The Amp meter gauge requires bringing the main lead from the alternator to the gauge and then a new lead from the gauge to the main lead on the starter on a 74. As you will be adding considerably to the distance the wire is running, increase its gauge size by 2. In ether case you get to retain the idiot light function as well. The oil pressure gauge will come with the plumbing you need to install it. I like to add a tee to the set up and retain the idiot light sender. Temp gauge uses sensor that expands a liquid in a bulb and up a cap illary tube to a mechanical gauge. It can go in the intake manifold where the stock sensor may be, or in one of the cylinder heads, where the stock sensor maybe. Or if the stock sensor is in the intake, you can place the new gauge sensor in the cylinder head keeping the idiot light functioning. I prefer gauges with a 270 degree sweep as opposed to those with 110 degree sweeps, the numbers are larger and I feel they are more accurate. Whitelightning

One of my students is doing that right now. She has an 81 C10 that had the idiot light dash and the previous owner destroyed it by trying to mount an accessory gage set where the idiot lights are. After comparing the wiring diagrams between the gage panel and the idiot light panel the wiring of the plug that fits the dash are in different orders. Yes we have changed the OP and WT sensors too. The reason for the gage panel she found one at a junk yard for 6 dollars.

----------------------------------------- Whitelightning,your post above was really good,and it touched on a concern of mine that is sort of an opposite situation. My truck came with the full gauge dash with no idiot lights,which is nice,but when you're pulling a load up a grade on a hot day and for some reason you lose oil pressure it might be good to have that second or two warning that an idiot light might provide.Otherwise you might not realize the situation until you hear all though lifters etc.,and that might be too late. So I've had it in mind to someday install an idiot light on the oil pressure.It really would to good to have both systems,as you mentioned. Best...Brian O.

The easiest way to set that up is to use a "hobs" pressure switch. The switches are adjustable so you can set the pressure it comes on at. You would put a small colored panel light on the dash somewhere. Run ignition switched 12 volts to one side of the hobs switch, the other terminal would feed the light, and most of the lights ground through their housing. Now then "most" newer Chevy trucks with gauges still have a red check engine light, on my both of my S-10 Blazers it is on the lower right side of the dash, and it will come on if oil pressure drops, or the engine over heats. Problem with the location is the ledge at the bottom of the dash panel is too good a place for sunglasses or a pack of smokes, and covers it up. Whitelightning

Re:> "The easiest way to set that up is to

---------------------------------------------------- Sounds like a plan.Is this Hobs switch something I could put on a tee,thus preserving my line to the gauge?And where would I find one?I've never heard of them. My truck is an older model and doesn't have any warning lights(at least I don't think it ever did). Thanks...Brian O.

You want an SPST-N.C. switch. Honeywell/Hobbs part number 77022. Factory set for 10psi, adjustable from 7-12 psi +- 2. I haven't bought one in a while. Last one I got was from Grainger supply. I have gotten them from NAPA before as well. Any good plumbing, hydraulic, or also try airplane supply house( Hobbs are certified for use on air planes, civilian and commercial) will have these in a variety of pressure set points. An spst nc switch is normally closed until a set pressure is reached at which time the switch opens. They also have spst no which are open till a set pressure is reached, These are as far as I am concerned mandatory with electric fuel pumps on carb engines that didn't have electric before because these will shut the fuel pump off if the engine dies, like in an accident and a fuel line is broke. In a worse case scenario a standard oil pressure switch for an idiot light can be used, but you need a light that doesn't ground through its mount to use it as the switch will be the ground, and off course you are stuck with what ever pressure point, usually about 3-5 psi, its calibrated for. Whitelightning

NAPA is a ripoff atleast the local one here is!!

While this particular page doesn't correspond to your exact year, perhaps it and the rest of the site can help you with ideas and stuff...

I had originally thought to just replace the idiot lights with gauges and hopefully reuse the senders. Then I thought to add-on guages with a pillar mount and keep the idiot lights. My new idea though, is to replace the instrument panel and all gauges, perhaps with something from Covan's Classic once they become available. Then I would need to replace the steering column with a newer one to relocate the windwhield wiper and Light switches. I'm in no hurry for any of this, but always like to plan things out. Next up I need to figure out how to install the original tailgate. Currently there is a mesh 5th wheel style one in place that isn't secured so it bounced up and down every time you hit a bump.

Andy

Does anyone have an opinion on whether a 2-door/2wd Blazer is a deal at $16K out the door no money down. It is fully equipped with the normal creature comforts. Full power & Automatic with 4-miles on the clock.