Doc.....

You have helped so many people in this group I hate to see you going down the same road I did on this brake thing. Before you know it, all the parts will be new and they still wont work. Lets think about this just for a moment before you lose more money.

  1. We both know brakes very well, there is no magic there. You are going to doubt what you know is right and that is going to cost you like it did me.
  2. Even if ALL the prop and ABS valves were bad, if the system was full of fluid you would still get SOME pedal. There is nothing in the system that can bleed off all the pressure. Brakes are designed to be fail safe.
  3. I replaced every stinking piece of my brake system except for the metal lines and they still didnt work. Some of them I replaced SEVERAL TIMES.
  4. At this point you must know the problem is air in the system and a hell of a lot of it. If I had it to do over again I would get a power bleeder or make my own from an old fluid resivoir lid. This should not be necessary but apparently it is now. A lot of shops have them.
  5. I finally got some pedal from mine by jacking the rear of the truck up as high as we could get it (way up) and then bled it, the amount of air bubbles was amazing but I'm sure I still have some.
  6. There is no logical reason to have to have done this.
  7. Something extremely bizzare is going on and its only in older trucks.
  8. There MUST be SOMETHING going on inside those metal brake lines and as impossible as that sounds, there is nothing left... at least on mine. I'm sure of it. You might at least dissconnect both sides of one line and blow some compressed air through, you never know what might come out?

If you dont believe this your next posting will read "This is un-real, everything is new and they still dont work" like my first post a few months ago....

Since I dont know what color your truck is I am reserving every color in the spectrum for you other than white because I have that one. Then you can have your own, official "(your color here) Devil"

Reply to
CCred68046
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Cred,

The blue devil is still being a stinkin' bitch. Put her all back together the other day with the new combo valve and was still getting air from the rears. While bleeding the LR wheel cylinder SHEARED off at the drum backing plate. Damdest thing I ever saw. It was only 2 years and 40k old. So replaced those and the rear lines as they were seized to the cylinder and twisted off. After that was back together I was still getting air from the rears. Pulled the coil lines from the prop valve and ABS hydraulics and took a REEEEAAAAALLLL good look at them. All of the fittings were worn to say the least and the flares weren't looking so hot either. So, I replaced the lines from master to prop. valve and from prop to brake system (main coil lines). What a plumbing nightmare. Thanks GM for putting two different size bolts on a frikkin' line. Can't buy them like that....................out comes the flare tool.......................

I have all of the lines done but the rear coil, I plan to tackle that tomorrow evening. Then I'm out of town for a few days (my hands need a break, all that DOT3 has really screwed them up) and I'll fill er' up and see what happens.

Thanks for the support. And no, I do NOT think your nuts, I belive every goddamn word you've said about your situation. I wouldn't have believed it had it not happened to me.

Doc

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Reply to
"Doc"

Hey Doc they do make adapter lines with the 2 fittings needed. I know Advance Auto parts carries them.

Reply to
Wrench head

Advance carries the line that runs from master to front of combo valve (3/16" tube, 3/8-1/4 fittings), but not the master to rear of combo valve (1/4" tube, 3/8"-5/16" fittings), which I had to fabricate.

Doc

Reply to
"Doc"

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