Morris 803 info needed please

Hi

I'm trying to find ignition timing settings for a marinised BMC 803 engine (as fitted to the early minis/minors and Austin A35s). The engine has been recently overhauled and I believe it has been fitted with an unleaded cylinder head so would it be necesssary to retard the ignition to run on u/l fuel?

I also need contact breaker and plug gap settings. Could anybody please assist?

Many thanks in advance

MJ

Reply to
M.J.
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When you say 'marinaised', what do you mean?

If it has a Marina engine, then use those settings. I hope you've also changed the gearbox and rear axle, though, as neither will stand the torque for long.

If you've just used some Marina engine parts on the original 803, then the original timing is likely to be no more than a starting point anyway.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Ignition for ignition timing try 5 degrees bdc at idle with vac advance (if fitted) disconnected -- impossible to give a definite figure.

As for points gap assuming it hasn't been fitted with a magneto an 803 cc engine could have several types of Lucas (and other) distributer. If its is a late 1950s to 1980s style Lucas distributer model then the points gap is 0.014" --- 1940s/early 1950s type Lucas distributers ran with a gap of 0.012"

Plug gap will be 0.025"

Reply to
Zontag

The 803cc APHM is an even smaller version of the A series than the 848cc motor fitted to the early Minis. It was fitted to Minors from about 1953 to 1957 when it was replaced with the 948cc version which has a larger bore. The smallest Mini motor is the 848cc which is a 948cc with a shorter stroke.

Unlikely.

The unleaded cylinder head would basically have hardened valve seats to prevent valve recession. I would think modern unleaded has at least the same octane as 1953 British petrol! In practice I would treat the recommended ignition timing as no more than a starting point. With modern fuels and after a rebuild you may get away with considerably advanced timing. Listen for pinging.

Ignition timing: 2 deg before top dead centre, 3/32" or 2.4mm at the perephery of the crankshaft pully.

Contact breaker gap: 0.010 to 0.012 in. (0.25 to 0.30mm) Contact breaker gap (high lift cam): 0.014 to 0.016 in. (0.36 to 0.40mm) (it's probably the latter)

Spark plugs: Champion N5 (was code NA8), 14mm, 3/4" reach, Plug gap: 0.025 in., 0.64mm.

Condenser capacity: 0.2mf Vacuum advance 7 to 9 deg Centrifugal advance 17 to 19 deg, starts 400 to 650RPM.

The distributor is probably a Lucas 25D4 also used in many early Minis, Minors, Hillmans, etc. Later (up to at least 1980ish) Mini distributors are probably interchangeable for fit. There are many many different advance curves, and with modern fuels it's anyone's guess what would be optimum. Since you probably use the motor to idle or to go at hull speed, I'd set up the timing for best performance at hull speed.

As you have probably worked out, I've got a Minor workshop manual here, so if there's anything else you'd like to know from it, just ask, or contact your local Minor specialist.

Graham.

Remember to adjust my email address slightly...

Reply to
Graham W

In article , Dave Plowman (News) writes

errr, I think he means it's in a boat...

Reply to
Ben Mack

Maybe he means for maritime use? (ie, in a boat)? Dunno.

-- Howard Rose

1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini Deluxe 1964 Austin Mini Super Deluxe
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(cars on website)
Reply to
Howard Rose

snip

Best modern plugs for this engine are Champion RN9YC RN9YCC or equivalent Bosch or for the best NGK - unless the bores are knackered.

Reply to
Zontag

Ah - so he does. ;-)

What a difference an 'a' makes...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I have the manual for the Vedette (marinised) version here. In practice, I have found that timing settings are better finally adjusted by ear!

If you have the version with the Solex carb. make sure that the idler jet screw is correctly set. In practice, this means adjusting the tickover as normal, then opening out the idler screw a couple of turns! This is because, at slow speeds, the carb. runs on the idler so mixture becomes progressively weaker as the throttle opens until the main jet opens. This results in engine overheat - which vaporizes the fuel in the carb (which is just under the hottest part of the manifold).

I had to set up a Vedette (A-series) on which someone had moved the flywheel so the timing markings no longer applied. I felt for TDC through No. 1 plug hole with a screw driver and set the distributor up on this. The engine strated OK. Next, I let it warm up, then increased speed to about 2000 rpm, slackened of the distributor clamp and rocked the distributor a little until the engine ran as smoothly as possible. It has run fine for four years on LRP.

Reply to
Tim Christian

Hi Graham

Thank you very much for the info - much appreciated.

MJ

Reply to
M.J.

We live and learn. Was this a factory job or just a big marine supplier in the UK?

Yep. Engines age and fuels have changed enormously over 50 years.

Reply to
Graham W

The Vedette series of marinized BMC A series and their own gear box were made by Newage Lyon Ltd., Stamford, Lincs. I don't think they are still in existence.

Some spares are held by Sheridan Marine, but DSN Classics of Attleborough, Norfolk are also a good source. They also rebuild them.

Newage must have made at least a thousand of these units in the late '50s, '60s. They are found in a lot of Freeman 22s, for example. The Mk VI (1957 -

1964) used a 950 cc engine; the Mk VII (1964 to 1967) used an 1100 cc unit.

Final thought: it is well worth fitting a thermostat. I use the 72 deg C tropical version for the Minor from DSN.

Reply to
Tim Christian

Hi Tim

Thanks for that. Now you come to mention it, it's fitted with an SU carb - any ideas on how to set the mixture on these?

MJ

Reply to
M.J.

The mixture setting on SU carbs is by adjusting the nut around the variable jet. Follow the flexible tube from the float chamber to the point where it goes upwards in a right angle, that's the jet. At the top will be a large nut below a spring, which you should be able to alter with your fingers. Screw Up to weaken the mixture and Down to enrich the mixture.

Somewhere underneath the "bell" of the suction chamber you should find a spring-loaded "lifting pin", which when you push it upwards manually raises the piston. The recommended procedure for checking the mixture is to lift the piston about a millimetre and note the effect on the engine speed. If it increases significantly the mixture is too rich. If it decreases the mixture is too weak. If it momentarily increases slightly the mixture is correct.

Reply to
Chris Bolus

It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "Dave Plowman (News)" saying something like:

He's dropped it overboard?

Reply to
Grimly Curmudgeon

Thanks to all for all our replies and info (sorry about delay in responding - only just checked this ng)

Thanks again

Reply to
M.J.

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