Caravan 98 It has spark, It has fuel, will not start Codes said, PCM Internal fault, Replaced it,, will not start

Grand Caravan SE will not start. Changed PCM, because it gave a code

  1. Was driving along and all of a sudden, blank. Dead. Lights on dash odometer went out at that moment when it quit. Turned key, tried to start, no lights on dash. Turned key off and back on again, lights came on on dash. But will not start.

Starter cranking fine. Has Fuel, Has spark, will not start. Anyone have any ideas?

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
tesla sTinker
Loading thread data ...

Grand Caravan SE will not start. Changed PCM, because it gave a code

  1. Book says, PCM internal fault. Was driving along and all of a sudden, blank. Dead. Quit... Lights on dash odometer went out at that very moment when it quit. Turned key, then back on, tried to start, no lights on dash. Turned key off and back on again, lights came on on dash. But would not start.

Starter cranking fine. Has Fuel, Has spark, will not start. Anyone have any ideas? NO, timing belt has been replace did that too. Have cleaned all the pins on the pcm module, repluged. When I hooked it back up, codes gone. turn key gives disconnect code and end code just fine... on both PCMs - Still will not start. So I have two PCM modules, and the same problem...

camshaft sensor has been replaced. Still will not start. Has Fuel, Has Spark. ?????

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
tesla sTinker

What are the compression readings?

Reply to
Ken Olson

160-180 lb 5 cylinders 45 on #6? but will not even so much as even kick ????

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
tesla sTinker

I agree that it should at least fire. At this point I would have to see if the spark timing is correct. Also, a bad ground can cause all kinds of weird behavior.

Reply to
Ken Olson

On a 3 liter Mitsubishi OHC V6 cam timing is another major "gotcha". The bottom enfd of most Mitsu engines are pretty bulletproof - but their valve train and head design leaves a fair bit to be desired (assuming this is a 3.0 liter caravan).

Are your injectors pulsing? (easy enoug to check). Do you have correct fuel pressure (again easy enough to confirm)

Not rocket science.

What codes (if any) did the computer give before you started sacrewing around with it?

Reply to
clare

On 5/15/2016 12:12 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

pull the spark plug out of any of the cylinders and I can pour the gas out of the plug....

12 54 35 66 66 43 45 43 55

And #6, is only showing 35 lbs compression

changed 54 both still nothing, and I mean, the crankshaft sensor does not give a number for itself, book says its 11, but it says thats for both camshaft and crankshaft sensor, which to me, both of them are some kind of sick joke to set the timing of a motor with. Leaving it up to the PCM to make some sort of advance on the timing. Why, the distributor is working?.... A normal distributor with a camshaft sensor Ha ha right. Book says PCM will advance the timing until it starts? Checked what the book said, it says it will cease ignition coil, fuel injectors, and heating element of oxygen sensor if it does not detect any signal from stupid fuking sensors, cam or crank sensor. Well, I put my multimeter on those wires, checking voltage while cranking the engine, and all of it is working always... So why did it give me a 54? unless i counted wrong key method... Still will not even kick... I even changed the PCM, and did not do a bit of good.... Still acts the same. I may change it again, because I just dont understand this bull shit, that these people call, a vehicle. I should of bought an old lemon, with points in it, I would of been better off..... What kind of idiot says, this is advanced technology for today, when all the old cars were built a whole bunch better than this shit. They should of told China to go f*ck off long ago. And still, they screw the public out of all their money, even for parts. 55 dollars for a stupid tiny magnet sensor that has not pull. so they put an amplifier in it, so they claim, and it still, matters not. I am baffled with it. Makes absolute no sense whatso ever.

Now here is the thing that is puzzling me. auto shut down relay is working, i checked the relay, properly just as the book tells you to do. When i turn the key to on position, it cliks and fuel pump hmmm, and then, when i turn it to start cranking engine, that relay actual makes another click for some reason. ? BUT, as i said, voltage is at coil, at injectors and no start..... Could 35 lbs not be enough compression when you have the other 5 working fine? I just dont get it.... it makes no sense as if it is turning off something, but its not what the book says its turning off... auto shut down relay is just a hoax... Thats what I gather... It acts as if it does another click, as if it does not see something from the sensors, but, multimeter tappend into all wires, green orange, says its working... Injectors, and coil. And as I said, i can take the plug out, and it has fuel all over it.... And i just dont see, anything in the oil. put oil in and to see if it is rings, and it says no, still weak compression

ok, thats the proper order of those numbers. 55 is end of codes. 12 is bat disconnect. 54 camshaft sensor. NOW< it says 53 pcm, and I may of not read that 54 correctly... HMM.... right... so, the 35, happened about 1 year ago or more, and I fixed that and kept driving, it was an overheat cause the relay of the fan quit. I parked it immediate, cause I knew it had shit heads on it. sick rip off car manufactures... I jumped the fan motors with a wire I had with me so that, the fans would stay on and drove it home....

Since then, the only other thing it showed, is that 54, or should i say

  1. ? does it matter for I changed both, first the camshaft sensor and it is located inside the distributor... As far as the other numbers, have no idea... It had to of been way before when i did not own the vehicle....

Now, i pulled the crankshaft sensor after reading number 11 in the book, of which it says, both crankshaft and camshaft sensor??? Now why does this Chiltons book tell me that 54 is camshaft, 11 is camshaft and crankshaft sensors.... So what right, anyway, just put a new one from ebay in it. Seems it is a bit stronger, cause it drops to .o5 under metal, under slot it is 5 volts. So what right. The other one was not that wrong either, neither did the camshaft sensor fix anything as it was even ok when i took out the old one.... Cause all the voltage is still operating on the coil, on the injectors when im cranking it. Of which book says, it shuts down all that stuff if it does not detect the readings of those sensors. NOW on PCM 53, it says, internal fault pcm.... hMMM right?

you got me... The whole thing is like a fairy tale of trouble. To me, the thing should fire up with a blown head gasket running rough at least. It does nothing. If I knew how to take out the dam shit they put on it, and put regular distributor with points in it, I would of already done it, and thrown the computer in the trash can.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
tesla sTinker

On 5/15/2016 10:42 AM, Ken Olson wrote:

pull the spark plug out of any of the cylinders and I can pour the gas out of the plug....

12 54 35 66 66 43 45 43 55

And #6, is only showing 35 lbs compression, the others all five, are 170

changed 54 cam sensor, both still nothing, and I mean, the crankshaft sensor does not give a number for itself, book says its 11, but it says thats for both camshaft and crankshaft sensor, which to me, both of them are some kind of sick joke to set the timing of a motor with. Leaving it up to the PCM to make some sort of sick advance on the timing. Why, the distributor is working?.... A normal distributor with a camshaft sensor Ha ha right. Book says PCM will advance the timing until it starts? What???? Checked what the book said, it says it will cease ignition coil, fuel injectors, and heating element of oxygen sensor if it does not detect any signal from stupid fuking sensors, cam or crank. Well, I put my multimeter on those wires, checking voltage while cranking engine, and all of it is working always just fine... So why did it give me a 54? unless i counted wrong key method... Still will not even kick... I even changed the PCM, 53 and did not do a bit of good.... Still acts the same. I may change it again, because I just dont understand this bull shit, that these people call, a vehicle. I should of bought an old lemon, with points in it, I would of been better off..... What kind of idiot says, this is advanced technology for today,??? when all the old cars were built a whole bunch better than this shit dependable. They should of told China to go f*ck off long ago America. Well, we get it communists.... And they will not get me back on their car lots. And still, they screw the public out of all that money, even for parts. 55 dollars for a stupid tiny magnet sensor that has not pull... Dealer wants three times that much. so they put an amplifier in it, so they claim, and it still, matters not. I am baffled with it. Makes absolute no sense whatso ever. book says its fine anyway.... For all that stuff is still with power working. I even checked the ohms on the injectors, they are all fine.

Now here is the thing that is puzzling me. auto shut down relay is working, i checked the relay, properly just as the book tells you to do. When i turn the key to on position, it cliks and fuel pump hmmm, and then, when i turn it to start cranking engine, that relay actual makes another click for some reason. ? BUT, as i said, voltage is at coil, at injectors and still not start..... Could 35 lbs not be enough compression when you have the other 5 working fine? I just dont get it....??? it makes no sense as if it is turning off something, but its not what the book says its turning off... auto shut down relay is just a hoax... Thats what I gather... It acts as if it does another click, as if it does not see something from the sensors, but, multimeter tapped into all wires, green orange, says its working. all of it.. Injectors, and the coil. And as I said, i can take the plug out, and it has fuel all over it.... set plug on side of motor, and with bosch plugs, light up like you would not believe.... And i just dont see, anything in the oil. put oil in #5 cylinder and to see if it is the rings, and it says no, still weak compression so its a head gasket...

ok, thats the proper order of those numbers. 55 is end of codes. 12 is bat disconnect. 54 camshaft sensor. NOW< it says 53 pcm, and I may of not read that 54 correctly... HMM.... right... so, the 35, happened about 1 year ago or more, fan relay, and I fixed that and kept driving, it was an overheat cause the relay of the fan to quit. I parked it immediate, cause I knew it had shit heads on it. sick rip off car manufactures... I jumped the fan motors with a wire I had with me so that, the fans would stay on and I did drove it home....

Since then, the only other thing it showed, is that 54, or should i say

  1. ?maybe, does it matter for I changed both, first the camshaft sensor and it is located inside the distributor... it changed nothing, As far as the other numbers, have no idea... It had to of been way before when i did not own the vehicle.... I dont think the cam sensor was right code... if it was, its lost its marbles computer.

Now, i pulled the crankshaft sensor after reading number 11 in the book, of which it says, both the crankshaft and camshaft sensor??? Stupid shit. Now why does this Chiltons book tell me that 54 is camshaft, 11 is camshaft and crankshaft sensors.... So what right, anyway, just put a new one in it from ebay. 25 bucks. Seems it is a bit stronger, cause it drops to .o5 under metal, under slot it is 5 volts. So what right. The other one was not that wrong either, neither did the camshaft sensor fix anything as it was even ok when i took it out the old one.... Cause all the voltage is still operating on the coil, on the injectors when im cranking it. Of which book says, it shuts down all that stuff if it does not detect the readings of those sensors. NOW on PCM 53, it says, internal fault pcm.... hMMM right? puke computer miserable is what it should stand for.

you got me... The whole thing is like a fairy tale of trouble. To me, the thing should fire up with a blown head gasket running rough at least well enough to put in drive and move it. It does nothing. If I knew how to take out the dam shit they put on it, and put regular distributor with points in it, I would of already done it, and thrown the dammed computer in the trash can. The mulitmeter never lies... So what gives? I know, its the 666 thats on the corps. They say, they can hack your cars now with wi fi... thats right , shut them off. bastards.... I just dont get it. Me, Daniel of God. HA, it makes no difference, they will go to hell for making this shit. And cause all kinds of wars and economic disasters.... Thats what they want anyway right. But why do they have to include me in what they want.

I appreciate if you have ideas, but I doubt.... Its weird alright.....

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
tesla sTinker

ken, can it be the instrument cluster on the dash, becoming unpluged? Like, my neon did this to me, all the stuff went dead, the speedometer and gauges and all i did was replug it up, and it fixed its never ending glitches that it had of before.... Could it be, that the caravan is in a same state, dying, with bad type plug in on that cluster of circuit boards in the dash, for the thing has had mice go up inside it? Oh well, let u know what happens....

For I d>

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

Reply to
tesla sTinker

I don't have personal experience with it, but what you said sounds very plausible.

Reply to
Ken Olson

Check for bad/incomplete ground between engine block and battery negative. (simple check use one half a set of jump cables between the neg term and the engine block.)

An aside: check for very low (milivolts) between battery negative and the metal on the radiator. If present it likely has zero to do with the starting problem but could be indicative of a failing radiator.

Reply to
NotMe

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.