At least I still get 2psi out of mine. Well, I did before I parked it,
anyway. My Glacier (Walbro) kit just got here today and the tank vent mod
came last week. I'll be busy this friday morning.
If you find any takers, send me the 2nd highest bidder for my '03 (see? mine
is newer!) original LP, only 120k miles.
Walbro vs. FASS...
Both pumps are reportedly better than the stock LP. The FASS is set up to
allow extra filtration which I didn't feel I needed. I decided on the
Walbro back when the FASS was loud. Now, it is reported to be about as
silent as the Walbro.
The Walbro pumps plenty of fuel, much of which is returned to the tank
through a PRV. The rest feeds enough to your IP from idle to WOT to keep it
happy and cool.
6 of one, 1/2 doz of the other, I haven't heard of any disappointed FASS or
Walbro owners other than the earlier noisey pumps.
My stock pump is mounted on the engine behind the fuel filter, not inside
the tank. I think it's made by Carter. If I let the Dodge garage replace it
they will mount the replacement pump inside the tank. I've heard there is a
Carter replacement pump available that allows the injection pump to draw
fuel through it easier if that lift pump dies but I haven't explored that
option too far. I want to upgrade. I'm burning B100 biodiesel. It's a bit
thicker than #2 diesel fuel so I want something more capable. I filter my
finished fuel before pumping it into my truck but I still like the idea of
having easy to service filters on the frame rail. The fuel heater option
looks good too.
What a PIA that was. First, I spent over an hour working on getting the
second fuel line off the top of the tank. It is real close to both the first
fuel line and the electrical connector. I tried almost everything from
fingers, wire ties, bread wrapper ties and what finally worked was a length
of household ground wire looped and tightened.
Then, the wire connector would not come off. At all. I ended up dropping
the tank enough to slip the tank sending unit out of it and left it out of
the way as I took the tank out totally and installed the new vent kit. Re
installation didn't go well as I couldn't get the sending unit pressed down
enough for the ring to grab a good enough hold and screw down. (I thought
it was down enough, but it wasn't) Ended up cutting the wires (4) and
installing the sending unit on the tank as it sat besides the truck.
Reinstalled the tank and spliced the wires to two two-wire connectors so the
next sap won't have any difficulties.
The pump installation went very well. No leaks. Turned it on and got zero
(0) psi on the gauge. Was expecting 17# or so. Disconnected the fuel lead
to the isolator and had my son turn the key on. It spit fuel about 10 feet
or more. After the key was turned off, it took close to a minute to bleed
down. So, pressure was good to the isolator. Turns out the gauge side of
the isolator wasn't nearly as full as I thought it was (thanks Geno's, for
the advice). Now I have 17# at 'key on'.
The isolator being low is probably what made me think my original LP was
bad. Oh well, I was going to upgrade to a Walbro and the vent kit anyway.
Now, I have an Original LP sitting on the bench, probably in good condition
still after almost 120k miles.
(Happy to see pressure again)
That's why I gave up on mechanical FP gauges long ago.... been perfectly
happy with my Autometer 30psi electric fuel gauge. Despite the warnings, I
haven't beaten my sending unit to death yet, in almost three years.
I started installing my FASS last night. I couldn't get the suction line off
of the top of the tank module. I've had my fuel tank out three times before
so you'd think I could disconnect that stupid fuel line in my sleep. Nope.
The squeeze tabs on the clip are oriented "up and down". I can get the top
half of the clip pushed in easily but there isn't enough space under the
fuel line connector to push the bottom half of the retainer clip in. I tried
various tools but I couldn't get that clip released. I have a roll of .032"
safety-wire but I didn't think to try it. I ended up spinning the lock ring
off the module and dropping the tank down out of the way with the module
still hanging from the fuel lines. After the tank is out of the way the fuel
line connectors are very easy to disconnect.
The first time I pulled my tank I had problems with the electrical
connector. I slid the red lock-tab out but no matter what I did the
connector wouldn't release. I screwed around with it for over an hour that
time. I ended up prying up on the locking mechanism with a screwdriver until
it broke off. The connector comes off now with a gentle tug. I haven't had
any trouble with it falling off yet but If my fuel gauge stops working I
know what to check first.
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