My 78 firebird 350 pontiac with torkerII intake holly650 wont spin the
wheels -275 tyres, when I floor the gas.
I know the setup is wrong for low end torque but thats how I bought the car.
My question - can I rev the engine in neutral then shift to drive - like
dumping the clutch on a manual ?
Will the auto tranny stand up to this or will I likely brake it !
Not that I want to go round screeching tyres everywhere, I just want to know
I can sometimes ;-)
so its not like dumping the clutch then ?
I dont know what's in the diff
and I dont know what a high stall torque converter is !
I just thought with all that power I should be able to spin the wheels if I
felt the need !
I have never owned an automatic so didnt know what you can do.
Check if the catalytic converter is plugged. My 79 T/A was barely able
to chirp the tires due to it being nearly plugged solid. I disconnected
the exhaust, laid 50' of rubber and went and a totally new exhaust put
on it the next day.
It should chirp the tyres with no problem I've got a 3.4 v6 fourth gen
fitted with 245's and have trouble not spinning them up.
What happens when it's damp and you put it in drive and floor it if it's
still not doing anything would be inclined to get the gearbox checked as
something doesn't sound right.
P.S. I am also in the UK
In the wet its easy to loose the back end !
I am in coventry, where are you ?
I joined the local AAC but they dont have tech knoledge :-( - they just like
american cars !
I haven't really tried to sort the problem , I got the car in october and
its too cold to work on at the moment !
When it's warm I will do the basic tune up etc - see if I can work out the
carb (no manual).
Its got no heater fitted at the moment, so I only use it on the rare times
we get a nice sunny day !
I'm down in N.Devon.
Can I suggest point your browser at www.amvo.org and join the forum (doesn't
cost anything) there are lots of very knowledgeable guys on there all in the
UK. There are at least 2 on there who have probably forgotten more about
these cars than some of us will ever learn.
If you like what you find there it's a cheap national club to join.
Do you know what the rear axle ratio is? If it's a 2.xx ratio posi then
it's going to be hard to light up the tires. If you really want to do it,
I'd power brake it instead of neutral drops. I exploded the sun gears or
planetaries or whatever all that stuff in a TH400 is called in a 74 Grand Am
with a 180 hp 400 doing a neutral drop. Either way if you do it too much,
something will let loose.
I had a 2002 Ford F150 6cyl 4x4 with Limited slip. When it was new it was
easy to light-em up but then started dogging around 28k miles I got so
pissed I would literally floor it till the governer would kick in then slam
it into drive I did this at least once a week sometimes more and after two
years of this the transfer case, transmission and rear-end never gave me
any greif. I sold the truck and as far as I know the new owner has had no
Don't rule out the fact that you may have good tires. Hard compound
(expensive name brand) tires will squeal everytime you leave a stop sign.
The best tires for acceleration are cheap tires. They are always soft
compound tires that provide plenty of grip.
If you want to impress your friends by leaving big smoking black stripes,
get "high mileage" (high treadwear rating) tires. If you want to leave the
line quick and win races get cheap tires (lower treadwear rating).
one more from me My '86 WS6 T/A Used to let go all the time I lowered it
with Eibach sportline springs put Koni adjustables on the rear all
polyurethane mounts and bushings including tranny and torque arm. The car
will only let go now if I come to a complete stop turn the wheel all the way
brakestand it and let off. the the car will spin. and thats with dyno'ed
294rwhp and dunlops, (hard tires) so check maybee one of the previous owners
was serious 'bout traction
I'll pass on some testing we did on the T/A this week. The converter is
flashing way too low but I figured a couple of runs would give us an idea of
how the car is running. Right before the third pass I realized the Cal Tracs
were unloaded so I ran them down to just above touching by hand and sent the
car down the road. My buddy went down the road and turned the car around.
With a blown modulator, he left it in drive and nailed it off the line at
about half throttle. The BFG T/A radials blew up in smoke but then they
hooked on the rough road. Front end came up, rear planted and the car took
off. The 1-2 shift is pretty violent and the car got a bit sideways but he
stayed in it and spun to 5k soooo fast it was time to let off and park the
car. I can't believe it hooked on a set of Flintstone tires but the engine
seems to be running great. The converter is going back to the vendor to be
adjusted tomorrow, I need to order a modulator valve, swap out the Hemi
Super Turbos for Ultra flows, install turndowns on the cutouts, fix a leak
on the rear end and the car should be ready to go to the track. The spool is
a PITA but it came with the 9 inch so I think I'm going to swap it out for a
Dave(spinning is for the burnout box)
Today I changed the plugs.
I can now floor the gas, and the wheels spin <G>
Only for a short time, but its enough for now.
I also look at the contact points, and ajusted them a bit. I noticed the vac
advance springs are strong. When I suck on the tube they dont move.
So I am guessing either the dizzy needs an overhaul or the vac advance needs
Anyone now if the advance should move when you suck on the tube ?
Also - when reved hard, the second set of barrels on the holley start to
open just as the engine wont rev any faster. I think its the contact point
gap ? But I was wondering if there ar any good web sites on seting up and
ajusting holley carbs. And how to identify them ?
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