I have the PC based OBDII scan tool by Alex Peper and it indicates I
have the #2 bank converter going bad (code P0430). I took it to the
shop today the mechanic took infrared temp of both converters and had
good readings. Seems both are functioning. My question is can a partial
plugged converter cause hesitation, power loss and still function? Any
Start with simple, probably needed anyway things first:
Your code and running problem could be 2 different things. If the car has
alot of miles it could be just a worn out cat turning on the light. get the
thing running right first, then mess with the cat. A plugged cat can cause
power loss but not likely a hessitation from a stop. If its been a while I
would just start with a tune up including fuel filter.
I retired from this business in 86 about when they started going nuts
with emission requirements. After dealing with these shops I figured
I'll take a stab at it myself so I bought the OBDII scanner and am
learning to use the data supplied by the onboard computer.
I've been fighting this problem for a month. The car has been to the
shop 3 times and still has problems with dying at stop signs,
hesitation, and what feels like a miss at any speed hot or cold, and
sometimes shudders when coming to a stop. The car 96 Sable 3.0 single
overhead cam with 61000 miles. The parts I have replaced are as
fuel pressure ok
one upstream o2 sensor (bank 2) today which is operating in specs now.
According to the scanner the o2 voltage on the sensors are almost
running together indicating a bad cat on the #2 bank and the #1 is
starting to look bad. Lately it put out the old rotten egg smell which
usually indicates rich fuel. The #2 bank was rich and the new sensor
took care of that. Since both cats are looking bad I can't hardly
belive the fuel injectors are at fault. I haven't been using oil or
water which would foul the cats. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
My old Dodge (DiamondStar, ugh) with EGR stuck open exhibited identical
driveability problems. You replaced the valve, but are you certain that
is working correctly? On my Dodge, there was an EGR controller that was
"tuned" to work with a specific EGR valve. They were supposed to be
replaced as a pair. I suppose the new EGR could also be stuck open for
some reason. Driving around with an open EGR can quickly plug a cat.
I didnt see fuel filter in that list, also clean the throttle bore and clean
or replace the IAC. Check the voltage on the rear O2 with it warmed up good
and at a high idle. Your bad upstream O2 could have fouled the cat. The cat
code will not make it run bad.
And, if the cat is plugged a good muffler shop can test it. Then while
your there have them replace it if so.......A plugged cat will act like its
running out of gas, the harder you push it the slower it wants to go. Dont
forget that fuel filter, cheap insurance.
if you can find a place to tap into the exhaust ahead of the cat (yank
the O2 sensor if nothing else) and install a pressure gauge you can
tell real fast if the cat is plugged. Should have only a couple pounds
Also, I've seen ALOT of 3.0l 12valve Tauruses come in with BROKEN cam
sensors, they run fine, just the CEL comes on.
You didnt put those Bosh platnium plugs in it did you? Those things seems to
cause alot of problems.
I used autolites with a new fuel filter first thing I did. I'm looking
closely at the DPFE sensor. I see a lot of postings about how this can
cause a lot of my symptoms. I need to get a vacuum pump before I can
Just some tips I gleaned from alldata for a 2000 DOHC 3.0 Duratec, my
guess is that they are similar for your 1996 SOHC 3.0.
Is the fuel pressure within spec? Too high might cause a rich
No exhaust leaks from the manifolds to the muffler?
Is the engine running too hot? Coolant level is OK?
Catalytic converter chemically inactive?
That last one was listed but can't say I know how a cat becomes
Fuel pressure good, no exhaust leaks, engine runs normal temp,
converters according to my scan tool are working satisfactory with
correct inlet and outlet temps, I'm leaning toward a bad DPFE which has
my symptoms. The backfire may because the computer is trying to lean it
out. I just bought a vacuum pump to test the DPFE.
DPFE is a very common failure on the Fords. A lot of the 2001-2002 and
some 2000 models Fords had a recall. I had mine done at the dealer in
It failed again two years later and I replaced it for twenty bucks or
so. I scanned the computer and got P0401 after the MIL went on. It
was on for a little while and I got tired of procrastinating going
through the pinpoint tests so I just gambled the money on a
replacement. Paid off this time.
Coincidentally it failed the last time on the same day I got the car
inspected at the state inspection station. Wonder if their equipment
The problems I'm having are intermitant would the injectors act up all
the time? I idles just fine. If I snap the throttle it bogs then
backfires through the intake but not always. I'm going to do a
compression test this weekend.
did you say thefuel pressure is ok? Does it seem to have a dead spot in a
certain throttle area/range. Check the tps. If you have a scan tool great.
If not you can check the voltage off of it to ground with a digital volt
meter. You should see about 1/2 volt at closed, slowley raise it up to wide
open and watch for smooth increase to about 4 to 5 volts. Usually the tps
will wear out just off idle. It can cause a stumble at take offs and cruise
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