I think that what Floyd has supplied us with here is best applied to the
garden after the ground thaws - the bull can always make more of it. I
seriously doubt that the military removes batteries from their aircraft
because it would be too time consuming.
My uncle lived in Wyoming and he used to keep the battery and engine oil
by the kitchen stove when the vehicle wasn't being driven. It's only a
machine, not a person - get over it. Just change the oil regularly, use
a very low weight oil in the winter (like 5w30, etc.), and if possible,
use a block heater. I have never owned a vehicle that had less than
100,000 miles on the odometer when I got rid of it and only one of my
vehicles ever required an engine overhaul (it was that way when I bought
it). All these gyrations and Hous-Pocus garbage of yours are totally
unnecessary (and I don't care if 10,000 websites say differently, I know
what has worked for me and others). Rich B
When we had a really cold spell here in Upstate NY several years ago
the local school left the busses running overnight. They left them
going for about a week IIRC. 90% were diesel engines at that time,
the rest were CNG. Ratio is quite different now, don't know the mix
Considering you called him a pussy, why should be be obliged to give you
any of what you're asking for? If you want the info, go find it on
google yourself. What are you, some kind of primadonna?
Or, keep starting your car in subzero weather without another thought.
It's *your* car, and your money. Do whatever the hell you want with it.
E-mail fudged to thwart spammers.
Transpose the c's and a's in my e-mail address to reply.
On 18 Feb 2004 13:19:11 -0800, scott firstname.lastname@example.org (Childfree
I agree. I get in the car, let it idle for about one minute and
slowly take off driving. I DO have a carbureted car too.
People that let their cars idle for long periods are actually doing
more harm, at least with a carburetor type engine. They start the car
and go in the house and le it idle for 15 minutes or more. Well,
because no one is stepping on the gas, the engine is isling with the
choke closed most of the way. So, until someone steps on the gas to
open the choke, the engine is sucking in huge amounts of gas, and that
gas is washing all the oil off the cylinder walls and pistons. Worse
yet, that gas is getting into the crankcase, diluting the oil, and
doing more damage.
Get in the car, start the engine, let it rev for a minute, accellerate
a few times, and start driving. If it's severely cold, you might take
another minute, but no more. Also, when it's severely cold, I shift
into neutral for a part of a minute. That gets the auto-trans fluid
| Scott) wrote:
| They start the car and go in the house and let
| it idle for 15 minutes or more.
In Washington, D.C. you can get a $50 fine for leaving your car idling
unattended. If the engine is running someone MUST be in the driver's seat.
They're starting a crack-down campaign this week on that, as a matter of fact.
Probably theft prevention. The Seattle Tacoma area is one of the
leading areas in the country for auto theft, and one of the more
common ways to lose a car is to start it up on a cold morning, and
sit inside drinking a cup of coffee. And many of the people go out
and find their car missing.
Damn it . . . Don't you dare ask God to help me.
| > In Washington, D.C. you can get a $50 fine for leaving
| > your car idling unattended. If the engine is running
| > someone MUST be in the driver's seat. They're starting
| > a crack-down campaign this week on that, as a matter oa
| > f fact.
| What brought that on? Is it being presented as a safety
| issue, an environmental issue, or a theft-prevention
From what I understand, theft prevention. Even if you lock the car doors, they
will still levy the fine
I would guess it is for safety reasons. An automobile which is not
controlled can be come a lethally dangerous thing. If the vehicle
were to slip into gear with no one to steer and shut it down it could
be a disaster. Also, unattended running cars, if overheated could
catch fire. Someone operating the car would in most circumstances
prevent such things from happening. Thus the need for the operator to
On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 15:00:29 -0500, "James C. Reeves"
** To email a reply, please remove everything up to and
including the underscore in my email reply header.
I used to have an 84 Buick LeSabre, and after that, an 89 Cadillac Brougham.
I found that on some days, the only way to keep the car going was to sit
behind the wheel and keep my foot on the pedal, giving it short bursts of
gas to keep the engine from stalling. When it kicked down to low idle (choke
opened), I'd need to leave it running for another 5 minutes so that it
didn't stall under initial load.
I remember having to replace the Buick's carb after some garage goon
stripped the thread of the fuel filter housing, spilling fuel all over the
manifold. It really changed the car's character... after that, it needed
three pumps before starting on days below -10.
Carbs were tempermental as hell during cold days, but gave the car a lot
Chokes increase the richness of the air/fuel mixture, but
they do it by restricting -- "choking" -- the volume of air
coming into the engine, not by increasing the amount of fuel.
Since gasoline is volatile, that gas comes right out of the
oil as soon as it warms up. And since the engine is running
with no load on it *before* it warms up, I'm not sure I see
how any additional wear, let alone damage, would be inflicted
on the engine.
I saw a training film years ago about how to cold-proof an
airplane in preparation for letting it sit in extremely
low temperatures overnight. The airplane used as an ex-
ample was an old P-2 Neptune, which is relevant because
it had piston engines. Using controls in the cockpit,
it was actually possible to pump small amounts of gasoline
into the engine crankcases to keep the oil from thickening.
No harm was done, since the gas evaporated when the engines
warmed up the next time they were started.
What's the purpose of revving the engine a few times? (I take
it that this is what you mean by "accelerate.")
"I should've told you I was a leper
before we made love." -- Sam Kinison
Todays cars with fuel injection & all the computer & electronic parts
don't really need to be warmed up like cars of the 60's, 70's & 80's.
My brother ( who don't care anything about cars ) has parked outdoors
all his life. He starts the car, and 8 seconds later he's driving away.
My dad, who parks in the garage let the pick up truck run about 30
seconds after starting before driving off.
Mother only lets the car run barely 20 seconds & she's off & running.
My car, you can count 1, 2 and the motor is running. By the time I get
the seat belt on, sunglasses on, write down what the odometer reading
is, get a cassette shoved in the radio about 60 seconds have passed,
then I take off.
Generally I've found if its above 20 degree's out and your car is in
perfect running order about a 60 second wait after starting is all you
Its just a matter of preferance.
1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE
3800 V6 ( C ), Black/Slate Grey
_~_~_~_~276,925 miles_~_~_ ~_~_
Much of the need for warming up cars came from the days when the only
oil available was single viscosity. You would change the viscosity
when you changed your oil at the change of seasons. For instance, in
the late fall you would go to 10 weight, and in late spring you would
go to 30 weight. You would need to warm up the engine to allow the
oil to reach the temperature it needed to properly lubricate the
engine. Believe me, 30 weight oil flows like molasses at any
temperature under 70 or 80 degrees. 10 weight flows like modern 10w-30.
The oil would have to warm up so it flowed like 10 weight oil is
supposed to flow at normal temperatures. However 10 weight oil, when
warmed up too high, is too thin to provide proper lubrication.
Thus we have the modern multi viscosity oils, which flow like the
lowest rating at all temps and yet retain the lubrication of the
higher viscosity listed.
Also, the older cars with carburators had a very fast idle for initial
warm up. They would drop off of that as soon as you started giving it
the gas, and if the car wasn't warm enough, it would stall. So you
needed to let it warm up for a minute or two. Modern cars use sensors
to tell how much air and fuel are needed, coupled with modern oils
long warm ups are not needed.
I get in the car, start the engine, put on my seat belt and wait for
all the tests to be completed, such as ABS system, then I am good to
go. Although if my wife is coming, I may have to idle for longer.
Damn it . . . Don't you dare ask God to help me.
I'd say give it 2-3 minutes, so that the oil gets a chance to circulate and
any knocks and slaps quiet down. My LT1 is noisy as hell because the pistons
shrink, so I wait until the noise disappears and then go. I keep the engine
below 2000rpm until the temp gauge reaches normal, just to be on the safe
You should follow your owners manual first.
But this is what I got for instructions for my smaller engine car.
Viscosities have dropped over the last few decades(i use 5w30), and
because of this, oil flows easier compared to the days when you had to
warm up your car. Also, since high fuel economy cars burn so little
gas when idling, they don't warm up fast(I tested this, 15mins on a
cold day, and still not in the normal range), and are designed that
way. So, I read on cold days start car let car sit for one minute,
and then drive away, without driving at high speeds till car has a few
more minutes to warm up.
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