What I REMEMBERED seeing. Four years ago. The photos from notbob cleared
that confusion up.
You can leave the brushes until the charge light starts flickering. Mine
went quite a lot longer than 68K.
Me too. I did a similar investigation before tackling my timing belt for
the first time years ago. I'm doing the same on-again/off-again
investigation in preparation for doing the timing belt on our Tercel this
summer, and the front bushings and shocks all-around on the Integra.
BTW, I discovered I can easily hacksaw through a 10.9 bolt in ten minutes
with one hand and a partially-worn blade. If the damper fork bolts won't
come loose for me, I'll allow a couple of hours per side and two premium
hacksaw blades each side to cut through the old bolts and bushings. A
complete front bushing set is $350Cdn including all the taxes. The rears
were much more than that.
This looks just like the alternator on an 88 accord I recently swapped out.
Yes, you have brush holder/insulator correctly identified. If you got this
far, getting the brushes out pas this point is very easy. Two screws and
the whole assembly comes out.
In my opinion, no. But, mine is a civic hatchback with zero wiggle
room. I had to remove my alternator and that was hard enough. Also,
putting the new brushes assy back on can be tricky. You must slide
the spring loaded brushes back over the slip rings and the smaller
diameter between the two rings allows the innermost brush to push down
into the recess. Forcing the inner brush against the now larger
diameter of the inner slip ring may chip or break the brush. I used a
very small diameter spring steel rod (a very small dia drill bit would
also work nicely) layed over the slip rings to hold the brushes up in
the holder while sliding the brush assy back in place over the slip
rings. I then pulled the rod out which let the two brushes drop down
on the slip rings undamaged. This may be all but impossible to do
with the alternator still mounted. Also, you may have great
difficulty replacing the screws. One of the two screws holding the
brush assy is recessed and will be almost impossible to replace
without a phillips screw holder/driver. A magnetic screwdriver would
also work for this.
When you get your new brushes, get the whole brush holder assy. It
comes with a new brush holder insulator and makes the whole job so
much easier and quicker.
I had no trouble with that. As I recall, I just used a tiny flat-blade
screwdriver to help the brushes over the edge of the slip rings.
Again, I had no trouble, even doing it one-handed. using a new, well-
fitting stubby screwdriver is a big help. I just held the screw on to the
screwdriver with my fingers while guiding them into place.
Sure does. The brush holder is a great big heat sink. In retrospect, I
should have used a small butane torch when replacing my brushes instead of
Ah, but you used something, didn't you! Same problem, different
Yeah, but I'm a big ol' sausage fingered klutz.
Plus, I wasn't in the mood to play "chase the spring". But, if one is
feeling all handyman-ish or on a really tight budget, $20 can be saved
by replacing just the brushes. The brushes alone are about $4-5 per
pair and the whole assy with new insulator is about $25.
My biggest problem was getting the damn alternator out. It was a
seriously tight press fit in the alternator bracket. After removing
the alternator bolt, the alternator had to be very forcefully pried
free from the bracket with a 18" pry bar. To remount it, I had to
grind about .020" material off the alternator.
In my case I didn't know about the brush holder replacement at the time and
never thought to phone the dealer to ask.
I just picked up a set of replacement brushes for five bucks at a local
rebuilders that was nice enough to sell them to me.
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