There has got to be a better way for the backyard mechanic to change out
the starter. I am just not prepared to chance breaking off a stud on the
exhaust manifold. So...
I ended up disassembling the old one to remove the bloody thing.
Unfortunately, I also had to disassmble the new one too and then
reassemble it in that tight space between the oil pan, the exhaust, and
various suspension parts.
On the bright side, it works but what a killer to do on your back...
Same thing with the 3.2's in the Troopers...I thought I might do it myself
till I couldn't find the starter and dad said the mechanic that replaced
theirs had to pull the exhaust manifold...wasn't a pretty bill! :-) Does
everyone's 3.2v6 seem to drag a while before it catches and starts? It's
that way on our 94 and my parents 93...
I just changed out the starter on my 89 Trooper II. It took me three
days to get it out.......2.5 thinking about it and .5 days actually
removing it. After I learned a couple tricks, installing took only
about 20 minutes. I felt kind of foolish afterword.
Never had to change one out on a 96 Rodeo, sounded ugly to say the least.
I once owned a 69 Jag XKE Coupe. To change the front U-joint (they last
about 50 K) you have to pull the engine or the rear end. Take your
pick. Naturally they come with no grease fitting because you couldn't
get to them. I put a new one *with* a zerk and cut a hole in the floor
for a grease gun.
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 18:12:15 -0500, Bret Chase wrote:
In the valley? How the fsck did anyone come up with that for placement?
I think it might be simpler to buy a new car.
My other car is an Audi A6. To change the thermostat, you have to
disassemble the front of the car and the engine to replace it. So, you
end up replacing the water pump, timing chain, tensioners, cam and crack
seals whilst the front end is in pieces.
$15 thermostat = $750 repair bill. Go figure.
To be perfectly honest, I spent 3 hours thinking and drinking about it. I
then tried to find the correct conformation to extract the starter, but to no
A bit of searching dejanews (oops, I mean google groups) that night
revealed the following options:
1. Let someone else do it for ~$400
2. Unbolt or remove driver's side exhaust
3. Fiddle with it hours. Eventually it will fall out
4. Disassemble and remove
I quickly eliminated (2), my pride eclipsed (1), I tried (3), and a few
scotches later landed me in (4). There was a desparate moment when I
dropped the roller bearings from the new starter on the floor and could
not find one for a while. I also nearly turned blue before I finally turn
the ignition key.
I still cannot believe anyone would design a car this way.
Good thing as Last weekend I had to change the water pump and the book
recommends removing the starter and place a tool to prevent the engine from
turning over while you remove the front pulley.
Well all started out well until I started to remove the bolt from the
exhaust manifold and the bolt snapped. Turns out that the starter was going
bad anyway and I would have had to remove the pipe anyway.
I tried to remove the Manifold but could not remove the 3 bottom bolts to
the manifold. I was able to remove the bolts to the heat shield and the top
3 bolts. Wish I knew what special tools they use as I have all kinds of
tools and nothing seemed to work.
Turns out I had to drill out the broken bolt while the manifold was
attached. I have rebuilt engines with less trouble than what I went through.
I will continue to do my own work as it did save me a ton of money But I
think I aged a couple of years doing it.
At least it is running now better than before.
Great. Something else to look forward to. Could you not have just left
the car in reverse and crack the nut with a breaker bar?
Manifold are a big pain. Did you soak the studs with Liquid Wrench(Tm)
the night before?
On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 19:11:12 -0700, Gary J Bevans wrote:
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