Lacquer Paint

Group, I have an 86 XJS with 40,000 miles on it.As you see I don't drive it a great deal.The other day I did not fully open[by 3.5inches] my sliding garage door.Yep I nailed the door and fender a bit.This is a car I've never even driven in the rain,so needless to say it was not a pleasant event.I've done some frame up's on several cars so I can do the body and paint work.However I'm getting to the point in my life that I don't want to sand stuff all day long..heh.I took it to a bodyshop, the cost made me wince.The clincher here is they want to do a modern base/clear on the repair.The rest of the car is just original Jag lacquer[correct?].This does not seem to be a great idea to me. They said that because of new CA. voc standards,that lacquer is no longer sold in this state,annnd they wanted to do a blend on the damaged areas with the B/C. Does anyone have a source that I can obtain some real 86 Jag paint?Damn I just hate body work now,and it looks like I'll have to pay for my stupidity with blood and sweat,hehe instead of money,guess I deserve it,eh?,Adysthemic

Reply to
Adysthemic
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Sad to hear about the XJS.

Whilst researching paint to re-do the '67 420, I did a "Google" search for automotive paint on the internet. Lacquer was the original medium on my car as well and is indeed still available, but as you are finding out, it is not widely used anymore. In fact, base coat-clear coat is giving way to acrylics. Try most of the major paint manufactures or go to a PPG automotive paint supply house (or Dupont or even NAPA) Explain what it is that you need to do and they will be able to help.

Whether California will allow you to do it of not is a different question. California is a country unto itself and the rules, regulations and "Propositions" are unlike anywhere else in the world. You may have to drive the car to Nevada to have the work done.

A double whammy -- a damaged XJS and having to live in California-- I feel sorry for you. Still, if you can't fix the XJS properly, you can still leave California so it isn't all bad news.

Webserve

it,eh?,Adysthemic

Reply to
Webserve

Reply to
throwaway8

Thanks for all the info guys.This morning I'll go out and do the lacquer thinner test.

Reply to
Adysthemic

PMFBI, '86 was a watershed year for Jaguar paint. Early '86 XJ6/12 and XJS models had the old Jaguar TPA (Thermoplastic Acrylic) paint, while later models were finished in Jaguars then-new "clear over base" enamel.

The TPA was a quality nightmare, plagued by weather checking and cracking on horizontal surfaces. THE "C.O.B" paint process solved the problem completely and was the result of a massive reinvestnment in the Castle Bromwich plant. Jaguar was still independent in those days.

Reply to
Jerry McG

Reply to
throwaway8

Well it wasn't lacquer.I'm not exactly sure how to proceed. When I polish the car I do get black coloration on my rags, using a mirrorglaze cleaner,so it apparently does not have clearcoat.The car was built in Dec 85.I'm not exactly sure how to proceed with this repair properly.Any ideas?

Reply to
Adysthemic

You are correct, it does not have a clear coat.

The upper surfaces on TPA-finshed Jaguars will first extremely dull regardless of care, then begin to show a spider-web matrix of small cracks. Unfortunately the only fix is to strip it to the metal and respray with a better paint technology. Jaguar paid to repair thousands of these back in the 80's & early 90's under warrranty. You won;t have any luck appealing to them now after this much time has elapsed, even if you are the firat owner. However, the newer COB finishes will look far better and will increase the value of the car, providing it's done properly.

Reply to
Jerry McG

I had a long talk with an experienced (and older) body man who waxed long into the night about urethanes, alkyd enamels and other types of paint and when & where they where used. I would guess you've got some type of acrylic paint. Talk to a good painter and follow his recommendations. You can probably persuade him to visit your car for a first hand look. I would STRONGLY recommend that you have any actual painting done by a pro shop with the proper equipement just for your healths sake. Modern paints (other than lacquer) contain isocyanates to aid in hardening. The molecule goes right through a respirator cartridge and can even be absorbed by the skin. Proper technique is to use a full one piece suit with air supplied from an external source. It's bad shit for an amateur to use.

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Reply to
throwaway8

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