Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues

Can you go synthetic? Are you meaning DOT 5? Yes, after you make sure that every bit of the original DOT 3 is gone. This usually means that EVERY original piece is replaced.

On the other hand you can use synthetic DOT 4 which is compatible with DOT 3 although you do want to flush all the DOT through the lines until the DOT 4 comes through nice and clear

The bits are probably the remains of the rubber boots and such.

When I rebuilt my entire system last, i went DOT 5. I didn't replace the metal lines, and flushed them with alcohol and compressed air.

5 years, no problems.

Is ther a wat to diagnos whether or not the brake booster needs replaced?

Thanks

If the booster is bad, the engine won't idle down. It is just a massive vacuum diaphragm.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jack-Jack wrote:

Suggestions on which brand to replace brake lines with. I have Goodrich braided hoses for the front!

I went generic bulk line and bent up my own. There is a radical price difference. Our local auto stores will also let you borrow tools like a flare tool and bender if you leave a deposit. Maybe you have a local place like that too?

The bender can be found at plumbing supply stores too, one type is a coil spring you slide along as you form it. They work well.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jack-Jack wrote:

I think he is referring to the rubber flex lines Mike.

I don't know the cost differential for the braided stainless, they might be worth considering.

How much of the braking system are you replacing? It sounded initially like Sumerel's wanted to replace everything from the master cylinder back.

Are you getting new steel lines, calipers, etc.?

No Summerall only was going to do the Master. I am doing the Master, all the lines, pads, the drums & shoes were done in Sept.

Where are you getting your autoparts?

I was gonna do NAPA or Autozone.

Stupendous:

Tell me more about this flushing I'd much rather do that.

3 weeks in to owning my new Jeep ('02TJ), @ about 700km...my brake booster went while driving down the highway in BC. Luckily I was in a traffic jam and was only doing about 5km/h....but the idle picked WAY up and I had to use the steering wheel to "pull myself down" on to the brake pedal....

E-brake worked fine....but was I pissed! Mechanic said I still had 'manual brakes'...ya, I could do the Fred Flintstone to stop!!

Mike Roma> If the booster is bad, the engine won't idle down. It is just a massive

Anybody have any input on bulk brake line vs. the preformed...price not withstanding!

I have only had to replace all the steel brake lines one time. I found that there were enough combinations of lengths available to make all the needed runs. I did not investigate the factory parts.

Check out

For bulk brake line, nuts etc. Tool rental available. Tim

I do not think you can get preformed lines for a CJ7. At least up here in Canada they don't carry stuff that old.

You can get pre-terminated lines of various lengths at most auto stores so if you take in the old lines you can likely match them fairly close. Nothing a few lazy S bends can't fix for being a bit too long.

The problem with the pre-terminated ones is getting smooth bends. There are some wicked bends in the rear around the shocks and back axle and from the combination valve out to the front wheels. If you get the coil spring bender, you can thread or screw it over the flare with some patience and strong fingers. The bender just slips along with the bulk tubing.

One other way to do nice bends is to duct tape one end of the pipe and fill it with fine white beach sand while tapping it down so it packs in there. This will keep the line from kinking.

If you aren't comfortable using a flare tool, then the pre-terminated lines are the way to go. No matter, the new fittings will need to make a creaking noise before they are properly tight.

The old lines won't likely come off easy at the fittings. When I am replacing, I cut the tubes just at the brass fitting so I can use a socket wrench on them instead of an open end wrench.

A proper open end tube or fitting wrench is well worth buying. They fit

5 of the 6 fitting sides and you can hold them closed with vise grips if needed.

You will need lots of good penetrating oil.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jack-Jack wrote:

Mike not questioning your experience or expertise here - your guidance on this group has been fantastic over the years.

That said - are you suggesting I fill my brake lines with sand when it comes time for replacement!?

That is one way to help stop the lines from kinking when bending. When they are full, it is harder to kink them. Renting the real tube bender is the better way to go.

I guess I should have mentioned you need to blow and rinse them out after you shape them?? The white beach sand you can buy isn't too dusty, it has been pre-washed and runs out like an hourglass. Something like aquarium sand.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's