Steering Bell Crank and parts 1967 CJ5 V6

Great afternoon all!

I need to replace my steering bell crank. It's pretty much toast. It has a 7/8" shaft though I cannot seem to find any parts that are for the V6 version of my Jeep. Is the 4 cylinder, 7/8" shaft the same as the V6??

Does anyone have a good source? I know I can get them (4cyl, 7/8") from a number of different places, I am just curious about your personal experiences.

Does anyone have one complete and in good shape you'd like to get rid of??

Thanks

Bomber

Reply to
Bomber
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I am having a hard time figuring out what you are looking for.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Bomber wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

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Above is a link, see the diagram toward the bottom. I will need all it's pieces (3 and 3A), assuming I don't go with the Saginaw setup as Bill has suggested.

Stephen B.

Mike Romain wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca:

Reply to
Bomber

Unless it specifies a limit on the engine for the part, you have no worries. If it is for a '48 to '71 like it says, it is just that.

Mike

Bomber wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks... I didn't even notice that this site didn't specify the engine size like the other ones I've been too... silly me.

Stephen B.

Mike Romain wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca:

Reply to
Stephen B.

There's the problem....I wasn't mistaken....the bolt and rebuild parts say "4 cyl". Why would this be different??

SB

"Stephen B." wrote in news:Xns9502AEAE41D36singray111491@64.164.98.50:

Reply to
Stephen B.

I believe that the V6 used the same stearing box as the M38A1, & my parts catalogs list the same repair kit part number for the CJ F4, the V6 & the M38A1 so you should be good to go.

Other things to check are the ball sockets in the draglink, the pitman arm (ball) and, of course, the sector shaft pins. These are all subject to wear, as I found out after putting in a couple of bellcanks kits :(. I finally replaced them all & it made a world of differance.

The Ross box setup works fine if you get the slop out of all the pieces.

You might want to try the forum here for more/better info-

Reply to
Howard Eisenhauer

Thanks for the info Howard...

I know the Bell Crank is junk due to the fact that there are groves in the ball from someone tightening down too tight on the fixing screw, the one that holds it to the steering shaft.

Another thing, the main thing, I noticed is that there are no bushings on either side of the shaft, every manual and shaft kit shows 2 of them, mine has none. Needless to say, the crank moves up and down before it move front and back... which equals slop.

I will check out these other sites as my quest, for now, is to leave it as stock as possible.

SB

Howard Eisenhauer wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Reply to
Stephen B.

Stephen, one thing I forgot to mention is- git yerself a steering stabilizer. The steering gear takes a real pounding from shocks caused by bumps & potholes on the road, this is where most of the wear comes from. A stabilzer will really extend the life of the parts, not to mention eliminating that nasty urge to head for either the ditch or oncoming traffic when you hit the brakes :).

H.

Reply to
Howard Eisenhauer

Yes. I 'love' my Haynes manual. It covers CJ's from 1949 to 1986 and is spot on for any I have checked or offered advice on.

Steering gear on a CJ is by year, not engine. Power steering has different pump brackets for different engines....

Mike

"Stephen B." wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

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