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[SOLVED] What kind of oil to use for 1994 Jeep Cherokee?

Hello, I just bought a 1994 Jeep Cherokee from a family friend on the cheap. Cheap Jeep Yah!

Anyway, does anyone know what kind of oil it uses? The previous owner could not find the manual and the sage advice stamped on the oil check dipstick says "see owner's manual for oil type" or something to that effect. The Jeep website has a link to get the owner's manuals, but that only goes back to 1995. I think the car is a Jeep (non-Grand) Cherokee, as the title says 1994 Jeep and there's "Cherokee" thing on the side of the car.

Also it looks like it's an oil leaker which other posts say is common for this car. Anybody know how much it should cost to fix? I hate to be leaking oil all over the place, but the car is not going to be driven often, maybe 10 miles every 3-4 days.

Thanks for any help.

Reply to
New Old Jeep Owner
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The 4.0 likes 10W30 for the most part.

The valve covers are the usual oil leak, but you can have oil coming out of the air filter housing also and occaisionaly out of the rear seal, but the rear seal looking one is usually the valve cover leaking down.

A good clean or a good coat of mud/dust on the engine will help you locate the oil leak easier. The dried mud or dust is the best, fresh oil shows up fast. ;-)

Valve cover is an easy fix, same for the air filter housing. Rear seal involves dropping the pan and starter to get at.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Listen to Mike, tightening the valve cover gasket can be an easy fix!! Much easier than the rear seal. Joe

Reply to
Joe C

Mike Romain wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca:

The mechanic said that it was leaking in two places, one out of the crankshaft and the other was a filter gasket. He said it would be $800 to fix both or $500 for crankshaft and $300 for the filter gasket.

Does that sound plausible and if so is it a fair price?

Reply to
New Old Jeep Owner

If I remember right, the filter base plate has an o-ring that fails sometimes. You remove the oil filter, take out the center bolts of plate, remove the plate and replace the o-ring. I am talking a half hour labor here.... For $300.00!!!!!!!!!!! Ouch!

For the crank leak, he has to remove the starter and oil pan which is a bit of a job. Including new seals and gaskets, $500.00 is high, but not insane.

You should do yourself a favor though and run the engine, then take a clean rag ad run it across the back of the engine head just below the valve cover. If you find oil there, then you have found the leak. That one imitates the rear seal leak all the time and is 'much' cheaper to fix.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Romain

Well, that lost something in the editing... ;-)

Mike

Mike Roma>

Reply to
Mike Romain

Now Mike,

I've read you need 3 of these O-rings and they cost 74 cents apiece retail.

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That means the mechanic is only making $297.78 for his labor, overhead, medical, fringe benefits, etc.

It also might require him to buy a Torx-55, Torx 60, or Allen wrench (I've read all 3 fasteners used)

Reply to
billy ray

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

That price was a typo on my part, it is 'only' $300.00. LOL!

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

That price was a typo on my part, it is 'only' $300.00. LOL!

Mike

billy ray wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Bill, Mike, this has to be some sort of misunderstanding. Like when I tried to show off my Spanish to my wife, when she came to Madrid, and the girl at StarBucks Fuencarril gave me three hot chocolates instead of two! Maybe the OP heard the service people wrong, or maybe they said "filter" when they meant "muffler flange". Who knows? It can't be, that an automotive service business, in the United States of America, would actually charge a customer $300 for an oil filter adapter base o-ring.

Earle

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Reply to
Earle Horton

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