My dash guage stays at the middle of the "E" after warming up without the radiator fan being connected.After driving today 55* outside temp for 10 miles at 65mph it still didn't go much above the middle of the "E" even after shutting it off.It does go to O when cold and does move to the "E" when warm but no further.I had the head replaced and don't want to have it fail because the guage is faulty.
RIPPER FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE! BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
It is alleged that snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net claimed:
Might help if you tell us what car you're driving. And maybe where you are, because 'round these parts, there is no "E" or "O" on the temperature gauge. It's "C" for Cold and "H" for Hot.
Sorry,1988 626 auto non turbo 4dr USA model. The guage has T.E.M.P and the needle sits dead on the middle of the "E" Some one suggested pulling the wire off the sender and grounding it to the engine but there are TWO sending units on the thermostat and even pulling them off but not grounding the guage still reads on the "E" Can't find anything in the MAZDA shop manual about these senders or a quick check other than removing and doing a resistance check,which I don't know how to do.
RIPPER FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE! BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
It is alleged that snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net claimed:
I take it then that the "T" is at or near the "hot" line and "P" is at or near the "cold" line? If so, then it sounds like it's either running warm, perhaps close to tolerance, or the thermometer's broken.
I believe a "resistance check" is, with power off, run an ohm meter across the circuit. It will show a resistance value in ohms that you can compare to the specs.
NO,actually the exact opposite.T is at the COLD side the "E" is below the mid point.
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