# 300D max.input torque on transmission

I liked my 300D's driving habits enorgh that I wanted to combine it with my other passion... steam engines. I decided to use one of my 300's for the donor vehicle.
As anyone familar with piston steam knows they only turnover at 1000rpm when redlined. But develop 1000-2000 foot pounds of torque at stall speed. The torque numbers are for 10hp and 20hp ,respectively Any rate,if someone knows how much torque the transmission can handle....that gives me an overdrive ratio to divide the torque down to. Stanley,Doble,and White in antique car museums ran direct drive at 1.25 street and .75 to1:1 racecar. The torque numbers are the reason , 7-15 hp Stanleys were compepteing with 40hp Mercedes gas and 60hp Napiers in hillclimbs and flattracks at the turn of the century. A 30 hp Stanley hit 150 mph at Osmond speed trials (later moved to Dayton) in 1906.
With luck, the transmision can handle enorgh torque ... that I can use double 10hp Stanleys on a mercedes differentail reverse coupled to the transmission for 1:1 overall ratio. If not ...then the same arrangement less transmission to get the 1:1 overall ratio.
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Interesting project. Without the engineering specifications I'd answer this question empirically by looking at the transmissions' respective engines' torque.
My '80 300SD's engine produces 120 HP @ 4,350 and 170 ft lbs torque @ 2400 rpm
It has the 722.120 (W 4 B 025) transmission. The "025" of its number indicates its maximum torque input, probably in kpm, which for this engine is 24. This box is a reinforced version of the standard 4 speed specifically for the turbodiesel engine.
There are some sites that list the various M-B models' engines and transmissions. If the 300SD box isn't hefty enough for your application you might look at a three speed from a 450 V-8 or even the transmission attached to the 6.9 V-8. After that you'll need to look at the automatics used in trucks.
It occurs to me that automatic transmissions may need a minimum rpm input to build the internal hydraulic pressure to clamp their clutches and bands etc. so your steam power's output rpm will need to be "stepped up" quite considerably.
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Thanks..... You confirmed my thought train.
Having to build the engines from museum prints....upgraded with modern metalurgy from what you have seen at the antique car rallies fail.High torque runs like the steam car rally climbing Mt.Washington ,really tells on cranks and related areas needing modern metals. Usually stress cracks that show up three months after the climb ,more so than at the event..
And mechanical engineer for the light company has help me with a copy of the steam side of a nuclear reactor plant.. Lots of people can see that the heat transmitter ....nuclear as high technology. But never think about how high tech. the heat reciever has to be. To handle a "fire" so hot that an oil burner or gas turbine looks barely warm,in comparrasion. A boiler design like that is more compact , under the hood ,than turn of the century boilers... safer too.
My pilot plant for the car project was a steam garden tractor ....a 3hp steamer had it running like a 30 hp gas tractor.Once you got past the monster torque issues....had to use a 60's era trractor in order to have something strong enorgh to re-enforce.New stuff at the garden centers can't handle the engine in it much less souped up stuff. Switching from solid fuel(grass,leaves,and wood in yard is enorgh do the job twice ...so the garden still gets a bit of compost.) to diesel/waste oil burner soon.Needing to work out a blue flame(ultra low NOx) burner design for the car ,give or take scaling.Shooting for 8gph on car for SL performance and fuel economy though 12gph would get you AMG numbers in a 300D sedan.. (Flame cycles like the flame on a water heater with pressure instead of temperature.) In town at 35MPH usualy averages about 3gph continuous on a 4500 lbs.antique car like Stanley or White(Autocar for modern tradmark,that is in the Chrycler/Daimler company collection. )

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