Glow Plug Removal Problem - Advice Requested!

You can try getting sockets that grabs by the center of the hex head rather than the edge like most... Try stopping by Sears for something like that to remove the glow plug... Unless you live by a harbor freight... they got a impact socket set that will take out any bolt.

Hi Tiger,

Thanks for the speedy reply.

I tried a 12mm deep, but it wouldn't grab. Then I went to the spanner, which slipped and finally the vice grips. Now I've got a bit of a mess. I've posted a picture of it on my website (

Tim

, so I > 84 engine has alot of clearance to get to the glow plug... unlike my 95...

I see it... Darn it! That HarborFreight tool i said can get that out with no problem.

At this point I am more incline to try the tool I showed you. Sears does make something similar so go there instead.

Stud remover tool is also another tool contraption you can try too.

Your '84 300SD is certainly in beautiful condition - like new!

Fortunately this old cast iron cylinderhead is tough as can be. Why not squirt some penetrating oil onto the reluctant threads, wait a week and then give it hell! Tiger's Sears socket is certainly an idea.

The GP's center can always be drilled out and an EasyOut used to remove it but that's the last gasp before pulling the head.

Whatever you do, your car is well worth the effort.

Yes. Don't be afraid to remove the steel fuel delivery rails togeain better access. It's stupid easy to do and save you lots of tie and heartache.

They just unscrew and screw back on as a unit. Without problems such as yours you save about half an hour and it costs you less than 5 minutes.

Thanks for the adivce, folks! I really appreciate it.

I got a "Gator Grip" at Canadian Tire. Unfortunately, it isn't as deep as it looks and wouldn't snag the head of the glow plug (I'll tuck it in the tool box for another opportunity!)

I wound up getting another set of sockets (six point instead of the

Richard: Thanks for the tip! I did remove the fuel rail and like you said, it's a no-brainer.

Tom: Thank you for your kind words. The picture makes the car look better than it is (I'd call it good restorable condition), but it's certainly respectable.

I'll follow this up with a quick note once I've successfully completed the job!

Thanks again,

Tim

Lop that electrical stub off so you can get the socket in deeper... Don't know if that helps with the Gator Grip.

Sometime you can get by with american size... one size smaller and hit it in for solid grab.

Another excellent suggestion!

Thanks,

Tim

WD-40 is not worth a damn as a penetrant. Get a REAL penetrating spray like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Worth Rost-Off etc.

And after the devil is out, I suggest twirling a 1/4 inch (for metal) drill in the cavity - just use your fingers to twirl it - to cut the carbon deposits that are no doubt there. Simple and very easy to do. Then the new GP will screw right in.

On Aug 1, 8:43 pm, "-->> T.G. Lambach