Oh, and while there are a lot of SEL's out there, there aren't that
many SE's. The 380SE was only sold in the US for 2 years and during
those two years only 25,000 were made for the entire world (and looking
at the previous production numbers I'm guessing about 13,000 made it to
the states). And I really don't understand where you're getting that
there are a lot more cars out there as good or better. Name 5 current
production cars that are better built than a W126. Maybe some look
better on the surface, or have better performance numbers, but start
taking them apart and you'll see what I mean: there are none.
Ok, let me put it this way, I was far away enough that one would have
very reasonable expectation to think I could have easily stopped in
time. What happened that I wasn't able to, I don't know. I needed like
5 more feet. Which is why I want to inspect my brakes. So does anybody
other than T.G. want to actually answer my question, or does everyone
just want to be a dick?
Hmm, disks you say. I just looked at my records. They have a history of
lasting about 23000 miles, last time they were replaced: 23000 miles.
Hmm and my pads have never lasted more than 8000 and the current ones
have 13000 one them. Perhaps my pad low indicator light has failed me?
Of course I've always used MB pads and this time there are PRB metal
masters on there. I'm guessing fresh rotors and pads would have stopped
me that 5 feet sooner that I needed?
About 90% city driving. I'm from DC, so the city really is city. If you
average the number of stops and the number of miles, it's probably one
stop per 1/4 mile. Though I've been doing more highway driving lately.
We bought my 380 when I was born, literally. It's first trip home was
also my first trip home. But yeah, I'm in the process of e-mailing
around for a big brake kit, but it seems nobody makes them for the w126
any more and everybody is out of new old stock stuff too. I'm going to
at least go to ATE power discs. I wonder why Benz left all the brake
replacement stuff out of the service cd's. I know it's in my service
books, but those are back home. Or is just my CD missing it?
The official CD from MB? I have seen the brake section. It's there.
Anyway, it is pretty similar among all MB or even all disk brakes. If
you need help, let me know. Yes, I can help, literally. I live in
Maryland and work in DC too. The city driving you described, yeah, I
experience that too :-( The traffic is getting pretty bad in recent years.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm in North Carolina for the time being.
Yep, the official CD, it has the brake section but it's missing the
parts about pad and rotor replacement. It's in my paper books of the
service manual, which I have back home in DC.
Though you know what, you would probably know the answer to my only
real question on rotor replacement. Do I really need to repack the
wheel bearings and is it easy to screw up repacking the bearings at
all? I've done pads, takes like 10 seconds, and other than repacking
the bearings which is something I've never done (never replaced rotors
before, but seems simple) replacing the rotors seems almost as easy.
Don't need to pack the wheel bearing. You know how to change the pads?
That's great. So the caliper is off. The rotor has a screw locking
it to the hub. I think it's 4 or 5mm hex key. Just pull off the rotor
once the locking screw is out. There may be rust on the hub contacting
surface. If so, use a hammer to knock out the rotor. Don't worry. The
rotor is not going to be reused (MB manual does not mention the rotor is
serviceable. My local shop also refuses to resurface it.)
Rear rotors are different since replacing pads does not need to take
down the caliper. Also the parking brake (inside the rotor) may need to
be released slightly to allow removal of rotor.
The above is all by memory. The last time I did on W126 was almost two
years ago but I really don't recall anything special between it and W201
You don't take off the caliper to replace the front pads on a W126, but
as long as it is no more difficult than unbolting it and bolting it
back on, I don't see anything special about it. So every how often
should I repack the wheel bearings?
Yep... you need a 6mm allen key on 3/8" socket... a 3/8" to 1/2" socket
adapter... and a long bar wrench to get that rotor off the hub.
What I did is take the hub out... put in on the wheel and use three lugbolt
to hold the hub... flip the wheel over and use the wheel like a vise to keep
it from spinning as you remove the allen bolts.
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