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93 Mustang (2.3) Tach Not Working, Engine light on.

I have a 93 ford Mustang and the tach isn't working, the check engine light is on. It's the 2.3 with the eight plugs. Any one have any suggestions on what to look at ? I mean, what usually causes this on this car ?

I might add that the head gasket was replaced. When I got the car it was all apart, I had to put it back together, the head was bolted on with a new gasket and torqued down. (I know this was done right, my dad gave me the car and he did the work on it). But other than that, I had to put the rest back together. It run's ok, it seems to have a slight miss, and seem to idle down under load, such as when the fan on the radiator kicks on, or you turn the heater blower on.

I don't know how to get and read the codes that are stored in the computer on this car. I'd like to know how to do that as well.

Reply to
Mhzjunkie
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Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Heh, Pardon the brain fart...

You probably have bad wiring to, or bad crank/cam position sensor

Go on Ebay and buy the 93 ford cars cdrom manual. Check the seller's feedback for 98% or higher

Check the radiator frame stickers for EECIV Engine control system .. should be. Then google for info on reading EECIV codes using a test lite

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Backyard Mechanic spewed out this bit, and i'll scatter a few bits myself

I have those myself, so no problem.

The car does start, and run. Although sometimes after it's been sitting for a bit, you have to hold wide open throttle to get it to start, runs ok after it's started. Maybe a minor miss here and a skip there. Will either the crank/cam position sensor cause the tach to stop working, and the car still run ? I was under the impression that most vehicles will not even run with a crank/cam position sensor bad, am I wrong on this one ?

Will check it out, Thank you.

And thanks again.

Reply to
Mhzjunkie

The car will not run if the crank sensor is bad. If the cam position sensor is bad, the car can run although the fuel injector timing will be off and the engine will run rough. Having to floor the car to start it can sometimes point to the throttle position sensor. Older sensors have been known to trick the computer into shutting off the injectors at start because the computer thinks the engine is flooded based on the signal from the TPS.

As you mention, you really need to read your codes and find out where you're at. It gets expensive replacing sensors when they're still good.

Regards, TM

Reply to
TM

TM spewed out this bit, and i'll scatter a few bits myself

I'm sure I've discovered some of the starting problems and possibly the cause of the slight miss. I discovered the fuel line had a pin hole in it, underneath the car about mid-way back. So I'd imagine that would reek havoc on fuel pressure and cause a lot of my symptoms. Have been crawling around under the beast today, should have the fuel lines corrected by tomorrow. Next step, read the codes and see if I can work out why the engine light stays on, and the Tach doesn't work.

I some times wonder, this is a factory automatic, should it even have a Tach ? I hope someone hasn't switched out the instrument cluster on me. It does mention something about a discrepancy in the mileage on the title.

Reply to
Mhzjunkie

Both manual and automatic transmissions had tach's in the instrument cluster. IIRC, tach failure in the '89 to '93's were fairly common.

Reply to
Richard

Richard spewed out this bit, and i'll scatter a few bits myself

Thanks. That clears my suspicion up. I guess I'll round up a decent wring diagram, use my volt meter and try to find what's going on with the cockeyed tach. If I knew for sure that the tach wouldn't throw the Check engine light on because of it not working, I wouldn't worry with the tach so much.

Reply to
Mhzjunkie

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