Air conditioning leak

'86 LX Hatchback, 3.8

My air conditioning went almost overnight from cooling adequately to blowing hot air. The clutch was cycling on and off at about two second intervals. I found that the high side schrader valve was leaking so I took it in to get a new valve and have it evacuated and recharged. The shop put dye in so they could look for leaks in a few days. It was cooling good, and I took it back four days later. The mechanic said there was a small leak at the compressor front seal, but I might be good for the rest of the summer. About a week later, after not having run the AC for a couple of days, it started to blow hot again. (I don't mean heater hot, just outside air hot.) I took it back to the shop and they said the compressor was leaking at the seams and needed to be replaced.

If the compressor was leaking that bad why didn't the guy say so when he first checked it? Maybe the evaporator is leaking. They said they sprayed soapy water on the evaporator and observed the runoff under a black light, but when I bring it to have the compressor replaced they will check the evaporator with pressure. Having replaced the heater core I know that it's a huge job to replace the evaporator. I also know that there's no way they could have gotten to the evaporator with water.

I looked at the system with a black light and I do see a small amount of dye on the seams of the compressor. As fast as it depressurized I would think that there would be a lot of dye. I pressed the schrader valve for a second and could see a lot of dye there.

My questions: Could the compressor be leaky enough to lose enough freon to make it blow hot in a few days and still not show much dye on the seal or seams? Could it still have enough freon but something else is causing the symptoms (hot air and clutch cycling)?

Thanks,

Mr. Bones

Reply to
Mr. Bones
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Reply to
Jim Warman

Whayever did I manage there???

Anyway, this ambulance has a hard time holding a charge.... I don't know how much dye I've got in the system (read that as lots) and I've about torn the bus apart looking for tattletales... nada.... replaced every O-ring... charged the thing with nitrogen and used soapy water all over the place....

In your case, I would address the leaks you can see and work from there.... If the car jas been converted to use R-134a, we must remember that these molecules (I am told) are very small molecules - even to the point of being capable of leeching through some rubber compounds....

Reply to
Jim Warman

I'm still using R-12, which is why I have to have a shop do the work. I'm not going to convert to R134 at this time, but I'll leave that discussion for another thread.

Reply to
Mr. Bones

Not sure what the current price of R12 is in your area.... I can imagine it is "painful"...

Last I saw in our area, it was a bout $700 COST for a 30# keg... we are not permitted to use it in automotive applications but for logging and construction applications, it is still legal... And I really have no idea what that is all about (other than, possibly, political contributions...).

Reply to
Jim Warman

Hmmmm, I wonder if Algore knows that the evil logging industry has that loop hole??

Reply to
WindsorFox[SS]

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