Heater Core / Electrical Problems (2.3 Sleeper posting)

There is no ground for blinkers. The turn signal stalk completes the

The 12v feed up to the column switch has been severed somehow.

The blinker flasher is usually in a clip. The connector may have pulled out of it when the coulmn was dropped.

A block diagram would be:

bat->link->ign sw->fuse #5->T/S flash->hazz sw->multi-funct sw->lamps-->gnd.

You may have a power feed or connection issue. Verify fuse #5 is hot by checking the back-up lamps. Do they illuminate???

-- Mike

The flasher was replaced, which would mean that it isn't unplugged.

Don Manning

All of the fuses checked good. We went back through the entire fuse box and checked each one thinking maybe something else could be messed up.

Now, when I first got the car back, the horn and cruise control (same circuit) where not working also. That fixed with a fuse change and hasn't messed up yet.

I will verify again when I get home, but I think I will be wasting my time.

Don Manning

All of the fuses checked good. We went back through the entire fuse box and checked each one thinking maybe something else could be messed up.

Now, when I first got the car back, the horn and cruise control (same circuit) where not working also. That fixed with a fuse change and hasn't messed up yet.

I will verify again when I get home, but I think I will be wasting my time.

Don Manning

I will tear back into it tomorrow. I was kinda leaning on a wire getting pinched or something. At first, I thought something had to be wrong because the hazards still worked, but then I remembered they each have their own flasher and are independent of each other.

I will check tomorrow and see what I can find. Should I pull the combo switch, disconnect each plug and follow each wire individually? Any known areas where something might get pinched routinely on one of these jobs?

Thanks,

Don Manning

Sounds like the power distribution is set up differently between Fox years, not surprisingly. What does fuse position #5 power???

-- Mike

Start with something easy. Verify 12 volt power at the T/S flasher input with a voltmeter or test lamp. Ignition switch should be in the run position. You can work with the diagram flow mentioned in my other post. I could give wire color codes, but they may differ between model years. Another thing would be to remove and short the T/S flasher connector with a jumper, place the multifunction switch to left or right position, and with the ignition switch to run, verify the right/left indicator lamp on the instrument panal to illuminate. Depending on the outcome, you'll know whether the fault is up or down stream and go from there...

-- Mike

Which flasher was replaced..... on yours (it'd be nice if you could remind us oldtimers what year), the hazard flasher and TS flasher may be separate and not mounted near each other.

Replacing the hazard flasher wont help signals at all..

They are seperate flasher units. Originally, we thought the flasher had gone bad coincidentally. So we pulled the hazard flasher and hooked it into the turn signal plug and it still didn't work. So we ordered a new flasher and plug it in and it didn't work. We have power at the flasher using a tester on it.

Don Manning

There is power at the flasher unit itself. Forgot to mention that.

Don Manning

You can work with the diagram flow mentioned in my other post. I

Go to the hazard switch. Disconnect and verify power at harness connector pin (S) with ignition switch to run. Turn off ignition switch and ohm out the hazard switch between (S) and (F) terminals verifying continuity with switch in off position. If everything checks out, the fault should be downstream from there.

At that point, I would check continuity between the hazard switch harness connector, pin (F) and chassis ground with the multi-function switch lever set to right or left turn position. With front/rear turn lamps and dash indicator all in parallel, there should be a low resistance to ground. Flip the multi-function switch lever to the other direction and the resistance measurement should have a similar indication. Use a cheap ohmmeter to measure this. One of these checks should hopefully flag an open circuit somewhere...

-- Mike

You are correct on Fuse #5. It controls backup lights and turn signals. As stated previously though, it is good.

Don Manning

Yes, but for *both* to be NF it has to be the common 12v feed from the flasher (assuming it's good) to the turn signal switch. I have no wiring colors for the later cars. Online?

Agreed. I'm trying to help pinpoint where the open circuit is initially without tearing too much into the dash or column. I'm figuring between the T/S flasher and T/S switch as well, based on Don's posts. I'm using the hazard switch as the go between point. The last paragraph mentioned above might make for a quick check between the hazard switch feed and T/S switch before digging into the steering column. It's no fun disassembling unless you're fairly confident where the fault lies. Saves time and frustration. That's my approach anyway. Tracing wire harnesses can be a bear sometimes as I'm sure you know.

I have wiring colors for 93 models, but they may not agree with his year Fox (88?). I know this from helping others with early Fox cars. I used pin locations instead. I haven't heard back from him. Hell, he may have it resolved by now...

-- Mike