Question on subframe connectors.

V'ger

.095 is pretty thin, even for a roll cage; I'd go with .125 or better. Gusseting must be thicker than the SFC material, preferred is 3/16" or better. The seamless carbon steel is fine, however avoid spray-painted-anything; it won't hold up worth s*it. A heavily powder coated SFC will stand up to just about anything, including salted roads. Painted SFC's will develop rust problems quickly, and will weaken over time.

Unless you're leasing or plan to dump the car in a few years, I'd hold out for better. Save money elsewhere - buy the best SFC's you can afford.

Regards,

-JD

--------------------------------- JD's Locally-Famous Mustang Page: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams---------------------------------

You guys make me want to finally get my subframe connectors put on. I think I finally found a shop I can trust to do them... unfortunately it's about a three hour drive.

I might just schedule the SFC install and a gear swap at the same time. That'd be a much finer drive home. ;-)

JS

Would this be the same thing as a K-member brace that Paul already has?

Regards,

-JD

--------------------------------- JD's Locally-Famous Mustang Page: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams---------------------------------

at 29 Jan 2004, JD Adams [ snipped-for-privacy@all.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I was wondering about the thickness and the spray paint. Granted, for about $45 I guess you get what you pay for. I'm gonna hold out for some good ones that are powder coated and thicker. Probably GW ones...

Thanks for confirming my suspsicions...

You might check out Kenny Brown, M&M or Steeda systems as well as the GW. All 4 of these companies make excellent subframes and assocories. Both KB and M&M have package deals that include the subframes, g-force braces and strut tower braces in single kits, this could save you some money. I am personally running the KB extreme subframes with the strut tower brace and a MAC g-force bar due to long tube headers. I've been very pleased with the setup and can really feel the difference in the car. I would also recommend UPR or WildRides torque box support if you plan on any major engine modes. I have the UPR which bolt in, but I have since welded them as well as welded up the torque boxes themselves.

$45 bucks? Oh yeah, you get what you pay for! :) Save your nickles and go for the best quality SFC for your intended application. For street use, GW's or Steeda's full-lengh tubular subs are oustanding. GW has the edge in build quality over Steeda (heavier gusseting, better torque box support bracing, much better seat braces), however they do cost a bit more and you will need to wait 2 weeks while they custom-fabricate it for your specific car. Both offer a decent powder coat finish, and will ship to your door inexpensively.

Regards,

-JD

--------------------------------- JD's Locally-Famous Mustang Page: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams---------------------------------

at 30 Jan 2004, JD Adams [ snipped-for-privacy@all.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Oh yeah. $45 dropped to my door. I got suspiscious and started asking questions about thickness and stuff. The answer of which I posted here. With results I kinda expected. Yeah, stret use only, I want to stiffen her up a lil more. Not doing anything crazy. But one of our members with a Fox body got T-boned a while back and the thing saving him was the fact he had SFC's installed. They stood up against the force of the impact and prevented the other car from coming in to far. Granted, the SN95 has bars in the door I believe but still... I got T-boned a while back by this bimbo to busy with herself to notice a red light. Luckily I was watching and went over as far as I could so she did not hit me squarely on. Still, $3000 damage to the Camry and it never drove as well as it used to. Loads of windnoise from both front doors all of a sudden... The silver lining on this? I got to replace the camry with my much loved 95 Mustang. :-)

.095 cold rolled seamless (I believe) is the required spec for a Winston Cup cage. It's certainly strong enough for darn near anything you might want to do with that car. Paint will only last a few years, depending on road conditions, miles, salt, sand, yada, yada, yada. But they can be repainted from time to time. Do you think the rest of your undercarriage is powdercoated? And everywhere you weld will have to be repainted. So it will rust there anyway if not properly coated before and after welding. Your biggest area for rust is going to be where you can't see it or get to it. For $45 I'de do it. PC is better, but is it enough better to justify the additional expense? Life's full of trade offs.

If it were my car, I'de try and get them uncoated. Then apply a cold galvinizing compound, some primer, and a couple coats of Krylon. Heck, it's under the car, who can see it?

You'll find a profound difference once the subs go in. A rigid frame makes a HUGE difference in the way your car handles, esp. if you have sport springs installed. Be prepared to have your socks knocked off.

Regards,

-JD

--------------------------------- JD's Locally-Famous Mustang Page: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams---------------------------------

at 31 Jan 2004, JD Adams [ snipped-for-privacy@all.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

When I get enough mad money scraped up I'm going to have that 'bullitt' setup done like you have. That, SFC's and a Ford racing K- member brace should really stiffen her up. To me that's more important than more power even...

One other brace that you might consider as well as the strut tower is the g-force brace. They are made by just about every one and are fairly cheap too (about $50 for a 2 point, $75 for a 4 point). It ties the points where the K Member bolts to the body together. I recommend a 4 point, but I've not found one that will work with long tube headers. I do have a 2 point with my long tube headers and can feel the difference even with it.

at 31 Jan 2004, Joe Cilinceon [ snipped-for-privacy@direcway.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews1.newsguy.com:

Thanks for the tip. I already have a strut tower brace. Gotta temporarily remove it though as it seems they can't align her properly with it being on. I'll look for the g-force brace.

On that note, does anybody know what size bolts are needed to bolt the K-member brace to the body and forward? I hate to have to put her on ramps just to figure that out and then again when I get the bolts.

I think he was referring to a strut tower brace and not the K member or g-force brace. I could be wrong however.

at 01 Feb 2004, Joe Cilinceon [ snipped-for-privacy@direcway.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews3.newsguy.com:

at 01 Feb 2004, Joe Cilinceon [ snipped-for-privacy@direcway.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews3.newsguy.com:

Sorry I didn't read what you said correctly. Too much speed reading I guess. g

at 01 Feb 2004, Joe Cilinceon [ snipped-for-privacy@direcway.com] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews3.newsguy.com:

No problem. Been there done that. Most likely will do it again. :-)

What's the difference for Convertible subframe connectors than non-convertibles ??

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-ERIC