1. Home
  2. Pontiac Cars Forum
  3. Removing a stuck/frozen bolt!

Removing a stuck/frozen bolt!

I've tried what I could, so now it's time to swallow my pride and ask for help.

On my '94 GPrix there are two supports that are bolted to the fenders and the other end to the front of the car. I wanted to clean the battery terminals but, as most '94 GP owners know, in order to get at the battery you have to remove the support and remove the windshield washer tank. I also get the air intake funnel out of the way for easy access. (Who was that easy access engineer!)

I've done this before with no problem. The support has two bolts on the front end of it and one at the fender end. That's the one that decided it didn't want to budge (the front two came out easily). The bolt was in so tight that I stripped off part of the sides, so the socket just slips off it. I tried heating it, using brake fluid (as suggested by a mechanic as the best free-up stuff he ever used), and tried one of those nut-removal sockets you see advertised on TV. None of those fitted really well and I didn't want to spend another $25 + tax for the metric set just to get a bolt out - especially if it didn't work anyway..

SO - My son gave me a set of extractors for Christmas and I'm thinking about drilling the bolt and using an one to get it out....UNLESS someone has a better idea.

What say you out there - fellow Pontiac people?

KP

Reply to
Keith
Loading thread data ...

I read this as meaning you still have a bolt head left -- it's just rounded. Right? In that case, swallow just a BIT more pride and dig out the trusty locking pliers, aka ViceGrips. Nice new ones, with sharp jaws.

Keith wrote:

Reply to
Robert Barr

Did you spray the bolt? Kroil Oil is the best soak it a couple hours or over night. Try heading the head of the bolt a few times with a hammer to break the rust. When you apply heat you must get it HOT. The only problem with that is the bolt will soften and be more prone to twist off. Get a prick punch and hit the corner of the bolt in the direction to loosen CCW. If all else fails drill it out. If you use the extractors make sure you drill all the way thru the bolt. The problem with the extractors is they are hardened steel. Drill out the bolt as large as possible then use the extractor. Don't force too much force........ don't break the extractor. I would also use heat along with the extractor. If you break off the extractor you can't drill it out. You would need to have access to the other side of the hole and punch out the extractor. If the bolt doesn't come out just totally drill it out and retap it.

Reply to
Tj

"None of those fitted really well and I didn't want to spend another $25 + tax for the metric set just to get a bolt out - especially if it didn't work anyway"

Sounds like if you had spent a few bucks for the right tools to begin with you wouldn't be in this fix now. If you plan on working on your own car BUY THE RIGHT TOOLS.

Reply to
FBR

And before you put the new bolt in...smear it with a anti-seize compound! And the rest of them too! You or future owners will never have to worry about those bolts ever again.

Reply to
Bon·ne·ville

Thanks for all of the suggestions...To put things in perspective:

Did you spray the bolt? Yes..I used the brake fluid after I tried Liquid Wrench and Rust Check..gave it a good soak with all of it.

Kroil Oil is the best soak it a couple hours or overnight - Never heard of it and have never seen it around these parts.

Try heading the head of the bolt a few times with a hammer to break the rust. Did that...no luck.

When you apply heat you must get it HOT. - Ok....Will try because I certainly didn't have it real hot.

And before you put the new bolt in...smear it with a anti-seize compound! And the rest of them too! You or future owners will never have to worry about those bolts ever again.... Will do this! As for the other owner...Hmmmm...I like the old girl!

Sounds like if you had spent a few bucks for the right tools to begin with you wouldn't be in this fix now. If you plan on working on your own car BUY THE RIGHT TOOLS. Almost all the tools I have are Gray brand...some I've had for about 30 years and they've yet to fail. What brand do you consider the RIGHT tools??

I read this as meaning you still have a bolt head left

Reply to
Keith

had for about 30 years and they've yet to fail.

In your first post you said; "None of those fitted really well and I didn't want to spend another $25 + tax for the metric set just to get a bolt out - especially if it didn't work anyway"

I take that to mean you were trying to use SAE tools on metric fastners. I don't give a damn what brand tools you use.

Reply to
FBR

Keith,

What does the bolt thread into? Is it going into a tapped hole in the fender / body or somekind of J nut type fastner ?

Old Grandad used to heat bolts red hot then dose it with ice cold water, then try unscrewing it - usually worked everytime according to uncle. Especially on exhauts bolts.

Banging on the bolt from different directions may also bust break the rust loose.

A Tony trick ( My dads expresison ) would be to use a box head wrench and have a second person bang on the bolt with a hammer & a punch in the direction of rotation of the bolt.

Good Luck.

========= Harryface =========

1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE, 3800 V6 _~_~_~_~276,100 miles_~_~_ ~_~_
Reply to
Harry Face

I'm guilty FBR - I did use SAE on metric only because I thought the bolts were SAE . The two bolts on the front came out easily and the socket seemed to fit good, so I used it on the other one. I'd used the same socket before to do the same job - no problem. It was only when it was seized that I realized that it was metric!!! Sad part is I did have metric sockets as well.

So - regardless of what I used the darned thing is stuck good and I doubt of using a metric socket in the first place would have made much difference. These bolts don't have a nut - they screw right into the metal.

KP

Reply to
Keith

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.