Over heating at idle..

Today I stopped at the local Porsche dealer to drool over a 911 turbo I've been dreaming of. I let my 86 944 idle for about 5 minutes while I was
looking at it, and when I came back the water temperature gauge was well into the red sector with the dash warning light on. Now sometimes when I pull up to a red-light the car will heat up a little but drop down as soon as I drive away, but nothing like this. I put the car in gear and drove away and instantly the water temperature dropped right back down to the normal range first hash mark. The car has less than 500 miles on a new water pump and thermostat. When I had this done the shop also replaced a lower radiator hose and had to fill it back up with coolant. Do you think they didn't bleed the system properly? What else could cause this to happen? I've never seen it heat up into the red zone before, hope it didn't do any damage.
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* Newsgroup: alt.autos.porsche,alt.autos.porsche.944
* Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 05:57:34 -0500 GMT * Subj: Over heating at idle.. ===================================================================== P>Today I stopped at the local Porsche dealer to drool over a 911 P>turbo I've been dreaming of. I let my 86 944 idle for about 5 P>minutes while I was looking at it, and when I came back the water P>temperature gauge was well into the red sector with the dash P>warning light on. Now sometimes when I pull up to a red-light the P>car will heat up a little but drop down as soon as I drive away, P>but nothing like this. I put the car in gear and drove away and P>instantly the water temperature dropped right back down to the P>normal range first hash mark. The car has less than 500 miles on a P>new water pump and thermostat. When I had this done the shop also P>replaced a lower radiator hose and had to fill it back up with P>coolant. Do you think they didn't bleed the system properly? What P>else could cause this to happen? I've never seen it heat up into P>the red zone before, hope it didn't do any damage.
Check both of the fan fuses in the fuse box. Can't remember their exact numbers but it should be listed on the underside of the fuse box lid. You might want to rebleed the system too. -- Jack
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Thanks for the quick response. While I was standing out there I did hear the fan kick on, and it does kick on during driving too. I have no idea how to bleed a cooling system, as my skills are quite limited, but if I take it back to the shop and tell them what happend do you feel that they should re-bleed it free of charge?
Thanks!
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find the top radiator hose , follow it to the top of the engine to just in front of the intake manifold where it connects to the top of the engine, on the top of the inlet pipe between the engine and the hose, you will see a 12mm cap screw, loosen it part way , DO NOT TAKE IT OUT
park the car on a flat area, open the coolant recovery tank, fill it to the mark, put on parking brake, put in neutral, start engine, open the heater to max hot,
let engine warm up, as it warms up you should start to see fluid coming out of the 12mm screw area, wait until the radiator fan kicks on, tighten the screw, and you are done...
shut everything off, refill the coolant recovery tank if necessary...
Paddington wrote:

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aah that will work, but the porsche service manual says to open the bleed valve and watch until there are no bubbles in the flow of coolant coming out -

hear
how
it
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william_b_noble wrote:

yup,
bleed valve and 12mm screw are the same thing,
"as it warms up you should start to see fluid coming out of the 12mm screw area,"
DC

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* Newsgroup: alt.autos.porsche,alt.autos.porsche.944
* Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:46:47 -0500 GMT * Subj: Re: Over heating at idle.. =====================================================================P>Thanks for the quick response. While I was standing out there I P>did hear the fan kick on, and it does kick on during driving too. P>I have no idea how to bleed a cooling system, as my skills are P>quite limited, but if I take it back to the shop and tell them P>what happend do you feel that they should re-bleed it free of P>charge?
They should bleed it for free anyway as it's a simple procedure. I use a radiator pressure tester to bleed mine, but you can do it manually. See http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-02.htm for several procedures. Follow the top radiator hose to where it connects to the cylinder head to find the bolt that you need to loosen to vent the system. Good luck. -- Jack
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at the risk of sounding harsh, if you cannot rotate a single nut 360 degrees and then observe coolant flowing out a little hole until it has no bubbles, you really ought to have someone teach you how to hold a wrench and which end of a screwdriver fits into your hand. What you need to do can be done by a 4 year old with her eyes closed.

how
it
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On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 16:51:50 -0700, "william_b_noble"

Don't forget that this is someone who can't turn off the engine of one car while he goes to look at another.
Thereby single-handedly causing the lousy weather we are having at the moment in the UK.
--
P

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bleed the cooling system
check to see if a fan comes on as the temp goes above the middle of the gauge, w/o the a/c on.
turn on a/c , ck to see if a fan comes on.
replace the fan switch that hides under the top radiator hose mounted in the radiator.
Paddington wrote:

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buy cars cheap at
www.shopeuro.biz
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Carsexporter wrote:

Shaddap...!
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Sounds like the thermo switch is bad or the fan relay, or the mechanic may have knocked the push on connections on the thermo switch loose when working on it. Also, the radiator will need to be air bled more than once if the coolant has been drained. If you drive the car every day then check the coolant level each day for a week. Also, do not use tap water. Only distilled water or ethylene glycol coolant. You have an alloy block which does not like electrolysis.
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