1995 9000CSE Starting Problem

Aug 24, 2006 26 Replies

I'm having a starting problem with my '95 9000CSE. It takes 4 or 5 tries before it will actually start, mostly after the car has been sitting awhile - anywhere from a few hours to overnight. It cranks and sounds like it's about to turn over but it doesn't. I took it to my local (non-Saab) mechanic who changed the spark plugs, but that didn't do the trick. I don't know if this is pertinent, but the voltage used to be 13 when starting the car, it now reads 10. Is that a clue? I've also read that this problem is not uncommon and, while most mechanics think it's the starter, it's actually the ignition. So, any advice? Thanks so much.



I can only comiserate. I have a '92 9000 Turbo 5-speed. It almost never starts and continues to run on the first try and it always seems to need a bit of cranking to get it to start. It seems the longer it sits the worse it is, but it usually starts on the second or third try.

I have not been able to get any advice which is useful. I had Mile Hi Body Shop (SAAB exclusive in Denver, CO) look at it and they did not even find the leaking fuel return line!

10 is normal for starting a car.

Charles

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Are there any other symptoms, e.g. poor running, hesitation, reduced power, smoke; anything unusual when you're driving?

No, the only other "issue" is that at the beginning of July the A/C started not blowing very cold so I took it to the same local mechanic to be recharged and he said that when they flushed out the cooling system there was a bit of residue in the radiator. He alerted me to the fact that this could be a sign of a cracked head gasket. When he most recently had the card (for the starting problem) he said that upon starting it in the morning another mechanic noticed white smoke coming from the tailpipe. I haven't noticed that since, nor did it happen when he tried to show me later the same day.

I have noticed tiny moments of reduced power when driving on the freeway...I attributed it to having used Exxon gas.

Is this starting to look bad?

Johannes wrote:

I was thinking of that it could be the headgasket, but this is only one possibility. Do you get any "check engine" at times? I happened to me, about 6 years ago and had a new headgasket, no shimming was necessary and no problem since. The symptom was occasional loss of power, similar to excessive turbo lag, so I thought it perhaps was the nature of the engine, but an LPT has virtually no turbo lag.

There was a headgasket "issue" due to inferior materials, but I don't know if it affects your model.

No "check engine" ever. I guess I'll be taking it to Saab mechanic, which doesn't thrill me because it means finding someone new.

I don't know what that means. Is that somehting I should check out and, if so, how do I go about doing that?

PS - Thanks for all your help

Johannes wrote:

The dealer has a computer that plugs into the diagnostic socket. He can then read the diagnostic codes stored in the ECU. However, there may not be any as they are triggered by "check engine" events.

Another (first) thing to do is to check the electrical connectors to the sensors, it's simple to do, wrong signals to the ECU could give the symptoms. I was close to replacing the mass meter (at huge cost), but it was just the connector that needed to be re-plugged.

Yes. I had the same with my 9000 just before the battery finally packed up. You have a duff cell.

Graham

No worse than a new battery. It had me worried too. Most batteries just die totally whilst big Saab ones take a bit longer.

Grahan

The late start could be a number of issues, tired fuel pump, leaky fuel regulator or check valve. May be others. Do this next time you start. Hold the ignition on for a few seconds before you crank. The fuel pump start running when you have the ignition on. Do it to build up fuel pressure before cranking. It is sure to make late start to disappear.

Does it do that though ?

In any case his symptoms are those of a failing battery. The very same recently happened to me.

Graham

The fuel system is supposed to stay pressurised, so it will always have fuel at start-up. When the fuel pump runs at start-up it shouldn't cause an increase in pressure if all the non-return valves have done their jobs.

Read the prior posts. The symptom was it takes prolonged cranking to start, which is indicative of the fuel system losing pressure.

Sorry to jump in late on this thread. I have a girlfriend who has a

9000i 2 Litre Saab, who is having starting problems. As the car had no servicing in a very long time, I changed the Battery, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs and Air Filter. Unfortunately this did not help. I suspected fuel pump problem, so I took the hose off the inlet to the fuel filter and it squirts out fuel no problem. The Fuel pump only seems to run when the engine is turning over, you can hear it near the rear passenger seat. It makes no noise when the ignition is on but the engine is not turning over, is this correct?. I read in another post that there are fuel return/check valves, and clues as the where these might be located? Do you think I am on the right track?

In desperation I did exchange the main HT Lead, Electronic Ignition Unit and Coil with a secondhand part I had to hand, but this made no difference, so I put the originals back.

snipped-for-privacy@markXscotford.com (remove the X to reply)

and clues as the where these might be located?

Sorry that should have read ANY clues as the where these might be located?

Although Mark here appears to be the exception to the rule, these symptoms (once the plugs and battery etc have been checked) usually come down to a dodgy DirectIgnition unit (coil pack). When buying a replacement, make sure it is the bright red one not the black ones as used on 9-3s and 9-5s

cheers

Ken

Thanks Ken I am not sure what the terminology used here is (I am not a SAAB man) the car as far as I can remember is a 9000i (not terbo) 2.0 litre engine. The Electronic Ignition part I used to exchange was in fact a brand new one, which indeed was black (Bosch). When I ordered the part I gave them the number off the old unit. Are the bright red ones better?

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