I'm trying to flush the system and replace coolant in my 1993 9000 CSE, B202 engine, no balancer shafts.
With a lot of difficulty, I have managed to remove the fr "When the flow of coolant stops, reposition the container below the cylinder block drain plug."
I've looked and looked but can't find the said drain plug. Where the
*%@! is this 'cylinder block drain plug'? I'm reluctant to assemble the car before the complete job is done.
The reason you can`t find is simply there is`nt one, on a non turbo there is a drain on the water pump housing, but on a turbo this outlet is used for the passage of coolant to the turbo. I would not advise undoing this pip as they are usually coroded so best to leave it alone. As you have the drain plug out of the rad the coolant in the block will drain from the pump via the bottom hose. If you want to flush the block remove the heater hose from the right hand side of the cylinder head under the barrery but left a bit, Then put a hose pipe in the hole and flush away. HTH, Tom, Saabtech.
Thanks for info, much appreciated. I can't easily get a hose pipe where I'm working, so I just poured water through the expansion tank, 4 applications of a 7 litres flower watering can. At the last turn, the water coming out under the radiator was clear. I'm reluctant to do more if it isn't strictly necessary. What do you think?
I couldn't get at this heater hose. As a compromise, I flushed also through the hose at the top of the radiator to the left. This should be possible provided you remove the thermostat, but I didn't fancy that. Quite a job if you want to do it properly.
I filled up with some Comma Xstream Red. This is silicate free and designed to protect alu engines and has a 5 year life. It took 4 litres Comma diluted with 4 litres distilled water (conveniently from a dehumidifier).
Why didn't you use the correct coolant? It isn't that expensive. I have never even heard of the stuff that you used, but I know it is not what SAAB calls for. It calls for Glysantin G48, which is what is in the SAAB brand bottles and several others.
While the water from your dehumidifier may have been "distilled", I know that the catch tank on mine is always developing some sort of growth in it, so I'm not sure it would be such a good idea either. Heat distilled water has the advantage of also being heat pasturized.
Me? I just use my own tap water. But we have relatively neutral pH water here and the mineral content is of no consequence.
The only reason I used that coolant was because I had a bottle of it standing in the cupboard for a while. It actually says: Contains Glysantin Alu protect from BASF. I once read a test of Anti-Freeze in CAR MECHANICS; this one came out about average, probably a trade off for the longer life span 5 years. But the best performing Anti-Freeze was one called '4 Life' which had both good cooling performance and 10 years long life.
The collection tank looked clean. But OK that's worth bearing in mind.
Technically it is distilled but it collects all the lovely flora and fauna from the air pacing through and around it.
it is not Pasteurized . This is ala ways in the liquid Phase and subject to rapid cooling. Remember?
Malcolm
What are you jabbering about? I said that the humidifier water is NOT pasteurized as is the case of "real" distilled water, which is generally done with heating to the point of vaporization.
By the way, you certainly do not have to exceed liquid phase temperatures in order to pasteurize. Generally 72 degrees (C) for 15 seconds is all it takes.
It's the same process. A dehumidifier condenses water vapour.
So an engine at ~90 degrees (C) will easily pasteurize the water.
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