Changed the thermostat on the '01 LW300 today. Getting ready for state inspection and the engine has been running too cold, which throws a code. Gone are the days when this was a 10 minute job. Couldn't believe it when the service manual said to remove the entire intake manifold right down to the engine block. Was able to remove only part of the intake and got the bolts loose on the thermostat... but then found there was absolutely no way to remove it short of beaming it up. Wound up going by the book - which neglected to give instructions to remove power steering pump line to make clearance for removing the water neck extension tube. After three hours of disassembly, was getting to the point where I was having serious concerns about whether I could get it back together. took a break at that point to walk the dogs and clear my head a bit. Checked the manual again and went back to work. Neighbor next door came over to see what I was cursing so vehemently about (he's a Psychologist and wound up giving me quite a bit of emotional support). Used sealant on everything. Did not want to have to take it all apart because something was leaking. Replaced a few cracked hoses too. Eight hours later, all back together, nothing broken, no leftover parts and a few band aids later, engine runs and actually gets to 195F.
I really should have changed the spark plugs while I had it all apart. Was just in shock about taking it apart as much as I did. Now that I know the procedure, will be a bit easier. With every thing you take apart, the probability of breaking something increases. Just getting to the spark plugs is only part of the problem. Soaking them down with penetrating fluid to make sure that the threads don't strip out when removing is a big deal. I stripped a cylinder head once and had a joyous time re-tapping to install an insert.
Engine uses these reusable stainless steel clamps on all the rubber tubes connecting the parts of the intake runners. Needs a special tool to install them, removing them takes only a pry with a screwdriver. Couldn't find the tool anywhere so just left the clamps off and used bailing wire wrapped twice around the tube and twisted tight. At some point I'll get a cheap slip joint pliers and modify them to work with the OEM clamps.