99 sw-2 Timing Chain

Bought the car two years ago, at 69000 miles, now 86000 miles, bit noisey when i bought it but became much noisier. Removed valve cover, cam sprockets badly worn, valve timing still ok. Replaced all sprockets, chain, guides, adjuster, oil seal (crank), and oil pump o-rings. Ready to put chain case cover back on. Anything else i should do or look at before i close it up? Is their a way to assure myself that im getting enough oil on top? Quite a lot of sludge under valve cover. Suspect original owner not good about changing oil or keepingit full. Lurking for a year or so, nice group, also my first saturn, and want to keep it. Thanks, John Reil

Reply to
john reil
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Sounds like you caught that in time and got all the parts taken care of. I cant understand peoples mindset of neglecting to care for a car (especially one so new)... I'm not sure if theres any way of priming the oiling system on a 1.9 as there would be with older engine designs with a hole for a distributor. If someone knows of a way I'd like to know that myself. The only thing I can think of is to leave the valve cover off, disconnect the coil pack, and injectors, and have someone crank it over (15sec max at a time) and see if you get oil up top... Might be messy though. There is a passage that sends oil to the timing chain. You might want to make sure it doesnt have any blockage. You might also run high detergent oil and change it every 1500-2000 miles to help clean that crud out.

Sounds like this Saturns under much better ownership now. :)

Reply to
Blah blah

Hold your foot to the floor to trigger flood clear mode. Or leave the sparkplugs out until you've got pressure. This also is easier on the battery.

Heheh. Yeah :)

I'd crank the motor with no plugs and the valve cover off to see if oil's comming up there. And scrape as much sludge as possible out.

Got a noisy lifter? Now's the time to find and clean/replace it. Very easy with the chain off.

Reply to
Philip Nasadowski

Taking the plugs out is a good idea, less stress on the starter, but WOT wont stop the injectors from pulsing if the engine exceeds a certain rpm (like 400rpm). With it turning freely the injectors may still open so unpluging them is advised. The coil pack should be disconnected as well so it doesnt need grounded.

Reply to
Blah blah

Thanks for all the advice. Disconnected coil packs, left the injectors alone, cranked for maybe 20 seconds. Chain carrying a good load of oil, cams oiled, assume the bearings are being oiled, Closed everything up, and started the engine, (didn't start immediatly). Seems to be doing fine and quiet. Not sure what i will do next but probably coolant flush and replace, Some hoses need to be changed. Is auto transmission fluid a time change item? I'm sure never been done. Did i mention how much quieter the engine is? I'm pretty happy now. Again thanks, will stay in touch John Reil

Reply to
john reil

For the sludge, I used to put a can of motor flush in the oil and let it idle for 5 minutes and then drain oil and replace filter. Engine should be hot before adding the flush. In recent years, I've been just using a quart of kerosene instead of the flush (+ drain and filter). Seems to keep everything clean.

Any of these solvents can have an undesirable side effect. Sometimes built-up grime around the seals is all that keeps them from leaking badly. Another down side it that bits of crud break off and wind up plugging the small passages and oil metering jets. It is a bit of a crap shoot and one has to weigh the benefits vs. the possible problems. When in doubt, do the cleaning a little at a time.

Reply to
Oppie

I agree with what Oppie wrote, but caution on adding the motor flush to a hot engine since it is highly flammable and if you drip any on the exhaust manifold it can easily burst into flames. Most of the oil flush directions these days say to add to a cold engine to reduce this risk.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

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