Anyone else having problems with Duracell batteries? (2026 Update)

I always bought Duracell but no more! I have NEW packages in my living room that are full of leakage! I lost a $400 Camera and like you it doesn't matter the size battery. Does China make DURACELL BATTERIES? Michael C. MA

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!

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Same thing. I sort my batteries at a disposal site. The attendant said to throw them into the regular trash hopper. He said the newer batteries do not have whatever additive that made them long lasting and are now safe for a landfill. That may be good? Jim 10-27-2024

If bought batteries at a 'bargain' store, you may have the same problem that I had with the batteries that came with my 4 new smoke detectors. At a casual glance they looked like regular Duracells. HOWEVER, they are marked "Duracell OEM", "Not for Retail Sale", and "Made in China"... There were 8 batteries installed 2 years ago with 2025 shelf-dates, in detectors that run mainly on 120 VAC. When 1 unit started beeping, I checked them all and found 6 of them still measured nearly 1.6 volts, while 2 of them (25%) were leaking at BOTH ends... I will never buy Chinese batteries again.

Nothing to do with being made in China. All to do with the manufacture specifications relayed to to the plant on how to produce the product. The same plant can make crappy and excellent stuff. They have to produce per spec from whomever contracts them.

If the batteries were lithium (highly likely for smoke detectors), they were made in China. How are you going to buy more lithium batteries without them made in China? You won't. Australia, Chile, and China are the largest lithium producing countries.

It isn't where the product was made. It was who mandated the specs for manufacture. For example, Duracell requires a thinner and more runny paste than, say, Energizer. When there is a leak, the runny paste is easier to leak out, and easier to spread out. I don't know why Duracell wants a more runny paste.

Shelf dates are not use-before dates. They are how long the battery can sit UNUSED on a shelf awaiting usage. Once placed into service, the shelf date is no longer applicable. You could buy batteries with a shelf date of 2035, but if you put them into service now then their lifetime is measured from now, not until or after 2035.

The smoke detectors you have run on line voltage, but the batteries are to keep them working during power outages. However, being on a power line does not extend their lifetime. The detection elements inside still have a life of 8 to 10 years. Despite being line powered, smoke detector should get replaced after 10 years. Some will start beeping when 8 to 10 years have elapsed which is measured from the manufacture date, not when the unit was put into service. The manufacture date should be printed on a label on the backside of the unit. Dates were not always required. If there is no date, replace the unit since they've been required to be datestamped for way over 10 years.

Batteries should be replaced every year, not every 8 years. In fact, you should put a annual reminder in your calendar to replace all batteries everywhere in your home, garage, and car. Unless you consider a device using a battery as temporary or disposable, you want to replace its battery every year; else, risk losing the device to battery leakage. Plus, what good is a device you need now that has a dead battery because you were too lazy to replace batteries every year? Although you might be able to clean the contacts damaged by leakage, they will be in poor shape afterward, and most times the contacts are tough to reach to clean thoroughly (which may likely require sanding to completely eliminate the corrosion). Leaving any corrosion just to expose the contact area means the corrosion continues to corrode the contact. Unless the device is super cheap, and is considered disposable, the battery is only part of the cost of replacing the device. If you don't want to replace the battery every year, don't leave it in the device, but then you'll have to install the battery when you want to use the device. With something like a smoke detector, you want it in service all the time. Again, once you put a battery in a device, it has gone into service, and the shelf date becomes irrelevant.

I quit using Duracell a long time ago. Its paste is too runny, and they are more likely to leak than Energizer, or even many of the store-brand batteries. They advertise having lots of energy, but never claim they never leak. Leakage is more likely when batteries have been left in service, but unused for long periods of time, or if completely drained, or exposed to extremes in temperatures causing internal pressure that can burst the seals. A flashlight in the garage with batteries installed experiences depths of winter cold and extremes of summer heat hence more likely to leak than a flashlight in a drawer inside your house.

For almost all devices that use batteries, I consider them valuable enough to warrant replacing their batteries once per year. I bought a slew of cheapy palm-sized flashlights that I don't care if their batteries leak (once they are put into service by adding a battery), but most of my other gear is far more valuable than the cost of a battery, even over many years of replacing the battery. Plus, batteries are chemical, so their energy wanes over time. I'd rather have a device that is ready to use when it is needed rather than finding it has a dead battery to then go hunt or shop for a newer battery to use the device sometime later than when it was needed. A flashlight with a dead battery is worthless in a power outage, and the power outage cannot be put on hold until I get a new battery for the flashlight.

Bought 2 little 12v duracells for my fan remote from a reputable store. Couldnt get remote to sync, found 1 battery sat at 9.5v a the other 10.5v. well done Duracell, last sale u made to me.

Pacific Northwest: My Duracell AA and AA batteries corroded within their unopened packages. Seems to have been due to a chemical reaction internal to the batteries. Think that it requires a chemical engineer to analyze the production process for chemical contaminants in the environment include electric motor magnetic fields. MUST advise Duracell's product management.

Pacific Northwest: My Duracell AA and AA batteries corroded within their unopened packages. Seems to have been due to a chemical reaction internal to the batteries. Think that it requires a chemical engineer to analyze the production process for chemical contaminants in the environment include electric motor magnetic fields. NOTE: IN IT computer networks similar can happen with some components that are exposed to excessive magnetic fields that electric motor generate.

I’ve bought quite a few Duracell batteries from Costco and never had problems until now. The batteries are being stored in a plastic case made for batteries and now in the case randomly I have 5 acidic AA batteries and 3 AAA batteries that are covered in acid. Expiration is either 2028 or 2031.

Alkaline batteries leak worse than a Democrat politician with a secret.

If you can't tolerate a leak or two, use an Energizer Ultimate Lithium battery.

In the past decades, I've have chronic problems with Ray-O-Vac and intermittent problems with Duracell battery leakage. Never had an Everyready battery leak and only use their brand of alkaline batteries.

Not so Merry Christmas finding and devices where we left Duracell batteries in them are leaking - no problem with non-Duracell Batteries. So far, we have seen no permanent damage. Lesson - remove batteries when not use and will not buy Duracell.

I learnt that lessons years ago with any type of battery. :-(

We had a couple of small, cheap handheld LCD game devices and the button-cell batteries were left in and leaked, destroying the metal contact parts in one device. (I kept both devices, so it would be relatively easy to duplicate the metal parts from one to use in the other if I ever dcided to repair it.)

I now *ALWAYS* take the batteries out, including taking them out of any 'collectible' toys I've got, which does mean opening the boxes. I put a note in the boxes to say what battery type they use, and then store the batteries separately or just throw them out (there are battery recycle bins in some retail shops).

I have also always taken the batteries out of my expensive HP calcultor when it's not being used. The calculator isn't used very often and the original batteries have lasted decades with no problems, but I noticed one was beginning to leak recently.

I’ve had the exact same problem. Old Duracells never leaked. Last number of years I’ve had many leak and ruin devices. Duracell has obviously changed something in their construction / production. Undoubtedly to save money / maximize profit. I’ll never buy Duracell again. Have had no leakage problems with Energizer or Amazon batteries. Ventura, USA