Rear wheel bearing: Wide range in labor charges in D.C. metro area

FYI, here's my recent experience with the infamous rear wheel bearing. We have two 2001 Foresters, both bought used. My wife's is automatic, mine's manual. I've had to have the right rear wheel bearing replaced on both by now, at 70K & 90K miles. For mine, it's the second time. The original owner had to have it done at 17K miles.

I used two different shops in the D.C. area. The costs: Mechanic 1: Parts, $119, Labor $150 Mechanic 2: Parts, $121, Labor $265.50

Mechanic 1 runs a casual shop, doesn't talk much and doesn't give the hours or his labor rate on the work order. Mechanic 2 charges $88.50 per hour, toted 3 hours and was articulate about why so much labor is required for that job. (And he makes it sound to my ears to be definitely not a DIY, contrary to some threads in this newsgroup.)

Mechanic 1, in Suitland, is near where I work now, so I'm "auditioning" him for the role of permanent mechanic. Mechanic 2, in Rockville, is a Saab specialist whom I used for my Isuzu Trooper for seven years and whose quality of work I trust completely.

Next up: The infamous CV joint boots...

-- Charles Packer mailboxATcpacker.org

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Mechanic 2 took a long siesta between the time he clocked on and clocked off on that job. Alternatively, if a mechanic took 3 hours to do that job I'd be questioning his ability and competency.

Reply to
bugalugs

Subaru has had a new procedure and tool for changing the rear wheel bearings for several years now. The shop time Subaru calls for is 0.8 hour for one and 1.4 hours for both rear wheel bearings. This is using the tool. If your dealer is so cheap as to not have purchased this equipment then YOU must pay for the addition time. Considering some owners on other Subaru newsgroups have done the replacement themselves in less than 2 hours. Why then should any competent mechanic not be able to do it in 1.5 hours considering a good shop will have a press for removing the old bearing from the housing. Greed is the operative word I think. JMO Ed

Reply to
Edward Hayes

Yes, I'm beginning to think mechanic 2 has been overcharging me in recent years. As nice as he is, he could still be charging what the traffic will bear. On the other hand, mechanic 1 charged $150 labor, which certainly represents more time than the .8 hr official time for the job.

-- Charles Packer mailboxATcpacker.org

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DC area has salt in the winter, right? On a 2001 Forester, chances are that the lateral link bolt is seized into the bushings. This effectively turns the 0.8 hour job into a 3 hour job, so I wouldn't be so quick as to say someone is ripping you off.

Reply to
Dmitriy

From my garage experience years ago (I spun wrenches), I found that the time allotted for almost all jobs is very reasonable. This assumes that the dealer has purchased the proper tools and all shop tools are in good working order. The flat rate book time doesn't include 45 minute coffee & smoke breaks. As other have said excessive rust, bent suspension parts etc will cause time over runs. There is a price for doing business and if one job in 100 is a problem so be it. Overcharging for almost every jobs is one reason people distrust some dealers.

Reply to
Edward Hayes

I definitely agree with you, and that's why I try to do my own work. Many places overcharge for the simplest things... like changing the brake pads for example.

But... The thing with the seized lateral link bolts is that it's a problem on

*all* Subarus that are more than 5 years old and have seen snow/salt. I've seen many people have this problem, and there are many-a thread about it on nasioc.

My own experience: I know a couple guys that work for a local Subie dealer... I asked them how much it would be to change the wheel bearing, expecting something like $200-250 with the 0.8hr book labor in mind... the response I got was around $500... because of the lateral link bolt issue. I though that was too much and went ahead and did it myself... sure enough, it took me 10 hours! For one side! I had to beat on the lateral bolt with a sledge hammer while turning it and melting the bushings with a torch....

I would also be careful about being cheap on this... the hub/spindle need to be inspected for roundness, heat damage, or 'lips'... if there is ANY damage... they should be replaced. All the seals need to be replaced carefully, and make sure they use the newer roller-type bearing... Otherwise you may be doing it again in 6 months.

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Dmitriy

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