towing with a WRX?

I have a '02 WRX wagon (MT) and am contemplating a June move from Massachusetts to Arizona which is ~2700 miles. I'm not going to move a lot of heavy stuff this time, but I do have a couple of bulky items. In past cross country moves I've always towed my (previous) car with all wheels off the ground behind a rental truck. This time I'd much rather tow a small trailer and drive those miles in my car in my seats with my stereo. U-Haul says the car is rated for 2000 lb trailer and recommends a class 1 (lightest duty) hitch.

Has anyone here towed such a load with a WRX? Any issues? What size trailers did you use, and how heavy were they? The trailers are only rated for 45mph, but the clerk said that was mostly to prevent the trailer coming off the ball during bumps when people don't attach the trailer quite right. I don't think I'd be able to go less than 60 on some of the interstates with 75mph limits. Still, I'm thinking of keeping the transmission in 4th gear to prevent lugging. Does this sound like a good idea? Any idea how much my gas mileage will go down (in mostly city driving I'm now averaging 18.9mpg)? My last moving truck with car in tow got just under 4mpg. Other recommendations?

Thanks, Byron

Reply to
Byron
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Use a heavy weight oil. The manual says 10W-40, 30wt, 40wt, or 20W-50 are OK for towing or exceedingly hot temperatures. It also says 10W-50 or 20W-40 are OK, but I've never seen those weights anywhere. Arizona will be hot in June so you might want to keep the heavy weight oil in there. Mobil 1 10W-30 could be another alternative.

Reply to
y_p_w

Reply to
Edward Hayes

First, don't listen to U-Haul, they don't actually -know- anything about what your car is (or isn't) rated to tow. I would ask Subaru (and not a sales-geek). When I looked at my resources (towingworld and the towing guide at trailer-life), either listed the WRX as rated to tow anything (the Baja, Forester, Outback and Legacy yes). Given that the Impreza and WRX aren't listed, it's certainly possible your car is -NOT- rated to tow anything. If it is not, and you damage the drive-train, I suspect Subaru will not honor your warrenty. Given that the WRX drivetrain is optimized for speed/power and not towing/power I would not be surprized that Subaru doesn't want you to tow anything.

Second, you need to understand the tow ratings a bit more. Besides the max-tow rating for -any- vehicle, there is a max combined weight rating. This is the combined weight of the vehicle (loaded) and trailer. This second rating is much easier to exceed then the tow rating. Since most max tow ratings assume one person and little gear in the vehicle. Check with Subaru for the max combined weight rating.

Third, for those Subaru's that are rated to tow, Subaru reccomend (requires?) that the trailer have brakes. Most U-Haul's I've seen don't have brakes.

Fourth, while the correct choice in engine oil will help keep the engine from overheating, it will not help with the transmission or brakes (large issues in towing).

Reply to
Ralph E Lindberg

My towing experience is somewhat limited, and with a 2003 Forester X, so take it for what it's worth:

My documentation says the Forester will tow 2000 lbs, but recommends trailer brakes if the weight is over 1000 lbs. As is usually the case with towing, it's not the power to get it going, but the power to stop it!

With those factors in mind along with my need for bulk hauling at least a dozen times per year ---

-- I had the dealer install the factory hitch when I bought my Forester

-- Shopped a LOT on the internet until I found an all-aluminum trailer builder within 200 miles of my Norfolk, VA residence. I paid a premium to get the 4 x 8 trailer, but it doesn't rust, has a GVWR of 2000 lbs, and only weighs 318 lbs empty. That leaves me at least 650 lbs of payload before having to consider the brakes issue.

If you think you'll tow often enough, I would recommend this option. If your towing is a one-shot deal, I would ask about trailer weight.

George Bame Norfolk, VA

P.S. I think one of the aluminum trailer builders I found on the net was in New England, maybe Connecticut.

Reply to
George Bame

Just letting you know I'm towing a 2000lb hardtop camper (12 foot ,largest you can get with electric brake) with my 2000 forester..you wold hardley even know that is behind you ..its a standard shift and I'm using mobile one full synthetic oil ..no temp changes...the only thing I wished it had would be a class 3 hitch ..something to put a weight distribution kit on so that it would take some of the weight off the rear ...I live in Newfoundlan where the terrain is not flat ...nothing but up and down quite large hills ..no problem keeping up with traffick doing 100 -120 km and very rarely have to gear back to 4th

Reply to
P&C

and as far as gas millage I forgot to add..no difference

Reply to
P&C

No difference? ...must be running exceptionally rich, I'd guess.

Steve

Reply to
CompUser

The following is not based on fact, but is simply my own personal views based on information that I cannot scientifically back up at the moment, but which I believe to be accurate information. Do your own research - never trust usenet - never trust a stranger - I am a stranger.

I tow a lot. I tow a pretty hefty ski boat with my 2002 Outback 5 speed.

I have had bad, bad luck with these lightweight class one hitches (think bent metal). They are just not worth a crap. Get the heaviest, best hitch you can find. I have a 3500 lb hitch on my Outback. Call around and try to find a 3500 lb hitch. Some places have them (for the Outback - not sure about the Impreza), some places only have the 2000 lb class 1's.

Unfortunately, after I wrote the above paragraph I ran a precursory search on WRX wagons, and only found class I hitches. A couple of them may be decent, with 2500 lb ratings.... here is a link... research and buy the beefiest one.

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The WRX is a Turbo, and Turbo "gas" motors can run extremely hot exhaust valve temps while climbing hills etc., and running full power for long periods of time. Be careful with that. I'm not sure if running in a lower gear will help with that, doubt it. Maybe somebody else can jump in here. I think the only way around this is to lay off the fuel on long pulls. Diesels have the advantage of heavier fuel being injected and lubricating and cooling the cylinder, the bore walls, and exhaust valve, so turbo's diesels are great for towing. Not true with gas engines.

I'd probably use the highest gear you need to pull it, that is what I do, but I have a normally aspirated 2.5 and I am not afraid to put it to the floor and leave it their for minutes at a time if I am pulling a long hill. With your Turbo, flooring it for minutes at a time may, or may not be a wise idea. Using a lower gear is generally an automatic thing, to prevent slippage and heat in the transmission. Manual's are far better suited to highway towing, and no transmission issues should develop, save for starting out on a steep grade.

Good luck. Remember, towing is about common sense. Large loads can be towed, but you can't drive around with a large load without using your brain!

nate

Reply to
uglymoney

Thanks to everyone who's responded to this thread so far. Lots of good ideas and suggestions.

I realize the smallish Impreza body with a 2 liter turbo isn't exactly what I'd spec out for a tow vehicle. But it's what I've got now, and your responses will help me decide what to do in June (tow vs. be towed).

- Byron

Reply to
Byron

I towed a 2,000 trailer from Colorado to California in my '88 Oldmobile Cutlass Ciera (3.8L), without any problems.

Reply to
speakeasy

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