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'94 Mazda 323 SOHC

I am having running/starting issues with my car. At first, it would randomly stall while driving, then the stalling started to happen more and more until my car would not start. It is carb., so I don't have to sorry about fuel injection issues. I measured the voltage at the "coil pack" inside the distributor and got the following values: Dark Green wire - 10.55V; Black/white wire - 1.80V; Light Green wire - 0.88V; Other wire - 0.88V; Are htese values correct? I have not tired anything while "starting" the car because I was the only one there. The "coil pack" I am refering to is the black box with a metal prong on either side above the metal "wheel" that is in the middle of the Distributor. Any ideas would be great! Also, when my car would stall, if I went from the "on" position to the "start" postition without first going to the "off" position, the car would not restart, just turn over. In order to re-start the car, I would have to turn the ign. switch to the "off" postition, then to the "start" position to get it re-started.

Reply to
erich.moeller
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Do you have a wiring diagram for your car and do you know which is supposed to be the +12V wire to the coil? (or if it's the old canister style coil just look for the terminal with a "+" on it) really it sounds to me like what is happening is that the electrical section of your ignition switch is crapping out on you based on what you have to do to make it run, I think the "IGN" terminal is not making good contact. You can confirm this next time it stalls and will not restart, do not turn the key off just leave it in the "RUN" position and measure the voltage at coil +ive, it should be about either 9V or

12V depending on whether or not you have a ballast resistor, if you have 0V turn the key off and try to start, if it starts probe for voltage again, if it is now normal then you know that it's the ignition switch.

good luck

nate

Reply to
N8N

1st check for trouble codes. But sounds like a faulty igniter!
Reply to
Backbone

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