brake pipe body clamps?

Brake line retainer clips

You need better magic... That and understand that those lines are one of the first items installed on the assy. line and then the other stuff is attached. You might need to loosen the strap or just use more force...

Reminds me: For a different repair, I thought I needed a new Bearing Lock Bolt. The parts guy at the Toyota dealer, who I think had been selling parts for Toyota since 1981, said he never heard of that, even though it's the very name used in the shop manual (FSM).

Took my VIN number and brought up exploded views. Not on them. I look and don't see it either.

He went to the shop and a mechanic showed him where it was. Now he believes me. Probably used on every FWD car Toyota made for years. But mechanic can't find the part on the exploded view.

Comes back. Still can't find the part.

Calls Toyota. Line busy. Says he'll get them later today and call me when there's an answer. Says answers usually take at least a day.

Calls the next day, leaves message. I call back, get someone else, no part listed under my name, leave message. First guy calls back. In this situation, he lists the parts under his own name.

Get the part the next day. He says it was on the exploded view, but the sketch of it was longer than it should have been and pointed the wrong direction. Part itself is not labeled bearing lock bolt, but "bolt, w/ washer". It's special because it has a 3/16 thick piece of rubber on the end. Buy it. Only $3.15. I thought it might be $10.

Go home. I've already, between day one and two, looked under the car for the rubber piece, and I've looked for a 6x6" piece of rubber my mother bought for repairs about 50 years ago, which was in like new condition when I saw it 10 yeas ago. I know where it should be, but it's not there. :-(

Decide I should have looked in the hole. If I don't, I may have two layers of rubber. By golly it's there. Takes 5 minutes to pry it out. Looks good as new.

Glue it to the original bolt. Torque to proper value. Return new bolt for cash.

The Chevy dealer.

I'm not sure if this is what you meant, but, after reading that, I disconnected the gas lines, which let the whole rats' nest drop away from the valley it was in. Then, just snap the pipes into the retainer, close the latch, and screw the whole thing back into position. Easy-peasy.

So, thanks.

There's one retainer (maybe #23 on the dwg at the link below.) It's right on the engine side, where the lines go under the firewall. I can just barely touch it, going through the wheel well. It's over the frame cross-member, and not accessible from below. No access form above, except _maybe_ by pulling the ABS module.

(Note: there's another retainer a little higher up - probably #42 on the dwg. I've been able to release that one.)

So, am I just missing something? What do ppl do, when they're doing an end-to-end line replacement? There's a youtube video (link below), where the guy just ignores the retainers, and tie-wraps the new (Ni-Copp) line to the old ones. It looked a little sketchy, to me.

thanks.

Link to dwg:

If you can get the retainers open, AND get the new lines into them, great. If not, we also do the tie-wrap thing all the time, usually on pickups where the rusted-out lines run between the fuel tank and the frame.

The retainers are basically there to keep the lines from rubbing other parts and getting holes, to keep them from hanging down and getting snagged on whatever it was you just drove over, and to keep them out of the way on the assembly line.

If I can't get a new line into a retainer for whatever reason, I'll cut a short piece of rubber fuel line, slit it end-to-end, slip it over the line to act as a cushion, and tie-wrap the cushion to the old line or whatever else is handy. As long as it's snug, and sorta where it was before, nothing else matters.

I gather you don't worry a lot about following the twists and turns of the OEM pipe, then? That is considerable relief.

(For what it matters, I did get that clamp released. The clasp is on the outboard side, and I was able to pop it free just by pressing on it with a long screwdriver. I think it will be easier getting through the firewall, with the old pipes out of the way.)

Like everything on a car the lines are installed in a way to make assembly easier. They are one of the first items installed and they are bent so that they stay out of the way and don't get damaged down the line. That also means that trying to replicate them can be a real PIA.

Replacement can be a real PIA. If it's possible I'll run them in factory locations. If it's a problem then I just make sure they are installed to keep them from being damaged.

I try if possible, but since the lines are often covered by things installed later, sometimes "sorta" is as good as it gets.