Last week I noticed that I had a broken bolt in my GTI transmission that I bought, I tried extracting it till the extracor broke inside, : ( now I have another spare standard 020 tranny for now, but my question resides; how much would I need to pay a machine shop to drill out and tap the hole? Aprox/Estimate. Im fed up with trying myself.
Yes
I've removed many broken bolts by locating a loose nut over the broken bold and mig weling inside the onto the bolt shank. Jesse
Yep, did that to remove some old rusted coolant drain plugs in a 351C block. Tried the impact wrench first, which only rounded the head. After welding a nut, applying lots of current/heat they came out very nicely.
I'm in the middle of a swap right now and Im fed up with it, so Id like to just pay someone else to do it. The question was and still remains, aroudn how much for the job to be done at a machine shop or maybe evena garage?
If you know someone, or know someone who knows someone who has a welding machine, they might do it for little or nothing.Ask around. cuhulin
The cost will be so variable because of many different things including how creative the person is, how accessible it is, if they've ever done something like that before and how much risk they feel is involved. Remember, you are saying "drill it out and tap it" which may not be possible because they would need to drill at least to the ouside diameter of the thread plus the next tap drill size and THEN tap it to some larger size. This would mean that there would have to be sufficient room in the case to do this. If you would use some kind of thread insert, the hole may have to even be larger. Without seeing the exact problem, I wouldn't be able to give you an estimate...
Exactly. We have discussed this sort of problem on this group several times in past years. There are ways to handle almost any kind of broken bolt issue, but as it becomes more complicated, the cost goes up.
Having a broken EZ Out in the hole doesnt make it any easier. IIFC, there are companies which can remove the bolt by electrochemical machining methods and do little damage to the threads (and like everything else, there are always exceptions).
He needs to put that sucker in his car or truck, amble down to the best machine shop in town, and chat up the folks there.
If it's a blind hole and you can put it into a position where a liquid will stay in the hole. You need a few items.
One a heat gun or torch to heat the aluminum part so it is very warm. A jar of ALUM (Spice sold in a grocery store, usually used to pickle foods) Clean water. Some Play Doh or modeling clay. Small brush. Needle nose pliers.
Alum has a neat property that we are going to exploit, it doesn't like steel.
Set up your part so the hole is up where you can see it. Now make a dam around it so that it will hold more water. Drop some alum into the hole and use the brush to get it down around the steel as much as possible. Now add some more alum and some water, you want it to end up a thin slurry of water and alum. Now use the heat gun or torch to heat the area around the broken bolt, Don't get it to hot, you want it to get just hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch. Use the brush to stir the slurry while you heat the part. Add some more water as it evaporates. Watch for the slurry to turn black and ugly as you stir it. That is the extractor and bolt dissolving into the alum. It will dissolve enough of the threads to loosen the bolt and allow you to remove it in 20 minutes or so.
Then just wash out the hole and clean up the threads with the proper die.
You can also use diluted nitric acid (1/3 water - 2/3 acid) but it gives off nasty fumes and is dangerous as well.
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