checking out a (cheapish) used car

I'm always buy an engine/trans that has a proven history and preferably that I'm familiar with. All GM. Because I know what to expect. Used to be 350's. Since '91 it's been 2,8/3100/3.4. Also had GM 2.0, 2.2, and 3300 as second cars. Stuck with them because they're good values. The checks you mentioned are good, but you should know the engines/trans weaknesses if possible. Some cars are to be avoided. Good ears help a lot. Or you might have a mechanic you trust check it out. If you're looking at post 2000 cars, all the GM's and Fords are probably good cars. but not their rebadged foreign cars. Jap cars are expensive. That's about all I know about buying cars, but I've had pretty good luck. Never been stranded.

Take a magnet with you, look for Bondo.

Good list. You really can't tell much more without diagnostic equipment. Alignment rack to see if it has been wrecked (tires won't tell you). Gas sniffer at the radiator opening. Can't tell if it burns oil or water since the CAT will eat it. Laptop hooked to OBD2 while driving for real time readouts. As others have mentioned, do a thorough Google search for problems with that vehicle.

I'm a GM fan also. I steer a little shy of the 4 cylinder models lately, ma ybe has to do w/certain horror stories I've heard lately. Not suggesting th ey aren't solid though. Had an 88 4 cyl Baretta, 2.8 Baretta, 3.4 Lumina (N OT!), 3.1 Lumina (a marvel), and a 3.4 Venture (oi vay). The 3.4s and suppo sedly the 3.1s even are prone to gasket failure, to the 3.4 I can personall y verify, but now I hear that also w/the 5.7 LT1!!! I guess you just got to know how far certain engines can go before a partial (top engine) overhaul is required.

Good stuff Paul. I'll be adding that stuff to my list when practical.

Good list but I don't see much value in pulling dipsticks and looking at the fluid after driving it. Ideally you can hear the COLD engine start. If it cranks for more then a few seconds or if it shakes for the first several seconds before settling down I worry.

The amount of grunge on the engine should match the mileage. I've seen engines/transmission/rear ends with what is clearly WAY too much grunge for the claimed mileage on the odometer. Less of a problem now that mechanical odometers are mostly gone but still, if the engine is grungy and it's less then 10 or 15 years old (100K to 150K) it's a red flag.

I always look for repaint indications too. Mismatched color, poor masking, over spray, etc. Not necessarily a deal killer depending on what was hit and how hard. Also, if the owner says he's had it 6 years and the repaint looks 2 years old and you ask him "has it ever been wrecked" and he says "No", what else is he lying about?

Pay for the CarFax. Or the equivalent, there's another good place out there, I forget the name.

I failed to do this last time, at a dealer, and it turned out to be a bad mistake.