Kingpin job on 1994 GMC Topkick (Chevy Kodiak) 12 ton truck is probably the first *major* repair that these trucks might need since the Cat diesel has just been broken in at 200k miles and the hydraulic brakes (all around) are so simple and easy to do. These are truly impressive trucks and can be gotten for very reasonable prices. This one can turn on a dime just like a pickup. Also it has the 'low profile' meaning smaller wheels & rubber which makes for great handling.
So, reading the GM manual right away raises questions about 'steering knuckle and kingpin replacement'. Special tool pokes 2 pins into (?) kingpin to 'keep it from spinning'. Then you pound out the kingpin with a soft-faced mallet (?). First, why is spinning of kingpin a problem as you are pounding it out? And if the tool indeed 'keeps it from spinning' with the 2 pins how would this allow it to be driven down and out? And, don't they mean 'soft-faced DRIFT? How is a mallet going to contact the top of the kingpin which does not protrude above the knuckle?
The drawing shows the special tool being bolted up against the knuckle with the *rotor* still in place?? This is just too bizarre....
I don't mind shelling out for GM manuals ($125-) or even buying the special tools, but I've run into howlingly simple work-arounds for not needing a specified 'special tool' in the past on more than one occasion. And I've seen jokers in GM manuals that could only have been put there to mystify and obfuscate, probably in-jokes to the trade.
So, anyone been here & managed to do that?? Or similar big truck- military or semi-tractor? Any comments appreciated, esp. wrt the picadillos of technical writing. TIA,