I have been having an overheating problem with my 91 Honda Accord. At first I thought it was because my radiator fan motor was broken because anytime I was on the freeway or going fast it wouldn't over heat, but sitting still in traffic, it would over heat. I replaced the fan motor and the shroud and actual fan blade ( because they were melted, I think the motor caught on fire inside and heated up and melted any plastic that was touching it). It still over heats on me when I am not moving or going slow in traffic. But I have discovered that if I stick it in nuetral when I am stopped, and rev the engine to about 2500 rpm, then it stays cool. I think it might be the water pump. The water pump is kind of a hard fix though ( it is actually run off of the timing belt ) so I want to flush out the cooling system first and replace the thermostat because that will be alot easier and cheaper fix than the water pump if it works. Can anybody give me some really good instructions on how to completely flush out the cooling system. Thank you for your help Thanks Nick
overheating problems with a 91 Honda Accord
Aug 28, 2003
5 Replies
| Can anybody give me some | really good instructions on how to completely flush out the cooling | system.
I don't believe any1 can be so thick as to need instruction to do this.
Nick, First simple check is to see if coolant is circulating in radiator. Open radiator when cool and start engine. Rev to about 2500 rpm and look for proper coolant circulation in top of radiator. Also change thermostat especially if over 4 years old. Also possible cylinder head warpage may cause gasket leak. Had similar problem with Predule and had to skim head and change gasket.
Did you know that a complete bleeding is required. An improper bleed would lead to idle or sensor detection problems. Bleeding procedures are unique to almost each car. Engine block bolt and switching fan to HOT is also one of the forgotten few.
| Did you know that a complete bleeding is required.
A honda F20A engine's high tmprtre ( ¾ way up meter's display, disgustingly not calibrated, Mercedes's is ) is largely caused by the
2 glossy covers ( front & back ) of exhaust*manifold ( a cheap & short 4 into 1, cast iron design, 13kg weight ) & the *'s little surface area for air cooling. I changed my F20A's * to a longer branch & higher efficiency ( 4-2-1 , aluminised mild steel, > twice as much surface area,Very interesting.
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