Windshield Repair Kits - do they work well?

I've tried them several times, practicing first on cheaper cars (was a dealer). Never graduated to more expensive cars, as my expertise was lacking. One really needs some specialized equipment(magnetized arms to position magnifying glasses, proper heat source, proper light sources, vacuum devices, glass-drills and training to fix them--esp. those having a short crack. Thart short crack can run full width of w/shield before you know it. Plus, I never could make the spots & stars virtually disappear, like the pros could do. Answer: pay the extra for a pro--the pencil-eraser-size would fade to the size of the lead-pointed end; and the crack quite often is hidden and they very seldom "run"--pros drill/fill the end of the crack to stop its running. If it were me, I'd pay the $40 difference and feel as if I was gonna get my $'s worth! Luck, whichever way you go. s

I used the permatex and fix-a-windshield brands on a very small chip/crack. The permatex looked great for a few days then it was almost like I did nothing. This was in winter so conditions were marginal. I tried another application in better weather but didn't get a good seal. I then tried the other brand that used a different application method. It didn't do much. I couldn't get to the base of crack, but it got the rest and that has held up for a couple months now. It is sealed, it's much less visible, but it's far from perfect.

The only reason I tried it myself is because the damage was the kind that would not progress any further if sealed up and is a 'have-to-know-it's-there'. If I should encounter this again, I would just have it done.

I have a small impact on my on my windshield from a rock the size of a

You have to follow the instructions _exactly_ to get good results.

I've heard that the Permatex/Loctite kit works well on bull's eye damage but not for anything else. There's also a different kit, consisting of 2-part epoxy, that works on both bull's eye and star cracks, and a friend of mine had good luck with it. But it took something like 45 minutes to apply the epoxy (he did it in the office parking lot during lunch) because the plunger had to be manipulated in different ways over the period to work into the entire crack and remove air bubbles (push it down and hold it down with a pin, pull it up and hold it up with a pin, plunge and release several times and leave it down, pump several tiems and leave it up).

I'd rather spend the $50 to get the repair done right and prevent further cracking that could require replacing the windshield.

They seem to work OK, and are easy enough to use. I wouldn't use them on a long crack, but I filled a pit that sprouted a 3" crack on one of my cars with one of these kits, and the crack hasn't grown any further and the pit is much less visible after being filled.

If you care mostly about keeping the crack from growing, and don't care too much if the chip stays there, you can stop-drill the crack with a Dremel tool and a small silicon carbide stone. Dremel #83322 is ideal. Drill just a bit beyond where you can see the end of the crack. Hold the Dremel at just a bit of an angle, and rock it back & forth a bit. Be sure to go all the way through the glass layer or you won't stop the crack; it's pretty obvious when you hit the plastic. Then press on the area to make the crack extend into the hole.

-Dan

You are not using a tungsten carbide glass drill (spade shaped)?

No, a silicon carbide stone. I've never tried tungsten carbide, so I can't say how it compares, but silicon carbide is what Dremel recommends for glass. I use this one, because it's the smallest diameter Dremel makes:

-Dan

Ok looks good. Have Dremel, will drill!

Are you cooling the glass when you drill? Adding oil or water to lubricate?

No, in my experience it's not necessary. Of course it generates some heat, but you can touch the glass immediately after lifting the tool.

I use a medium speed, and don't press hard, let the RPM's do the work. A grindstone isn't made to go straight in like a drill bit, so you have to wobble it a little, and I find it best to hold it at just a bit of an angle. It'll take a few minutes to get through the glass.

-Dan

you don't want to do that if you want the sealant to stick!