how do the rear drum brake adjusters work?

I took a look at

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and I'm stuck somewhere on page 40-41. How exactly do I adjust the brake adjusters? Do I just use a flathead screwdriver?

Are the left and right adjusters adjusted the same way, or do they thread differently? (both Rightsey-Tightsey-Leftey-Loosie, or different...?)

The only reason I'm comfortable messing with the rear brakes at this point is the theory that most of the braking is handled by the front brakes anyway, so if I mess up, I still get another chance at life... (grin)

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

====== They thread in opposite directions for left and right sides. You might want to ask yourself why you're trying to change the adjusters with a flat head screwdriver. Generally the only time you need to do that is if you're removing the brake drum and due to wear there is a ridge such that the drum cannot be removed without backing off the adjuster. If you're thinking the brake shop adjusted them too tight that is quite unlikely because if they were too tight, the brake drum probably wouldn't have fit back on. To my way of thinking, the best idea is to remove the rear drums. Even though my brakes weren't worn to the point of replacement, I removed the drums, cleaned up the inside with emery cloth in a circular motion, and lubricated the adjusters and I think six points on the backing plate where the shoes make contact. Not sure about pages 40-41. Presumably you're talking about the section on brakes. I just followed the steps in the factory manual for disassembly and reassembly. It was necessary to get some metric bolts from the hardware store to remove the drums. There are two small threaded holes near the center that accept the bolts and then as you tighten them the drum is pressed off. I could actually see the face of the drum bending during this process before they popped loose. They're not the same size as the puller bolts for the crankshaft pulley. Not sure but I think they may have been 8 mm fine thread. If you're not changing the brake shoes you can leave the adjuster attached, unscrew the bolt and apply fresh high temperature brake grease. I used a small tube of synthetic high temperature brake caliper grease from NAPA. Only cost a few dollars and my time for the rear brakes. Wanted to take the glaze off the drums and lubricate the points as indicated in the manual. You also need a couple of cans of aerosol brake cleaner to safely remove the brake dust, and a drip pan to catch the fluid runoff. If you didn't know, there is a rubber plug on the backing plate so you can check the brake lining thickness without removing anything, though you probably have to lift the car to see it. The Haynes repair manual for under $20 has a section on brakes with lots of photographs. A simple test to see if the brakes are adjusted too tightly or are dragging, would be to lift the car and turn the rear wheels by hand. They should turn freely. If the brakes are dragging you will be able to tell easily. The rear tires on a front wheel car just free wheel. If they do not spin easily, take it back to the shop that installed them incorrectly. You can also probably tell simply by putting the car into "Neutral" in a parking lot with a slight incline and see if it rolls back easily. Or if you are on a level parking spot, open the door and see if the car can be rolled back and forth by hand. By the way, the brake adjusters are adjusted with the application of the parking brake. That is the final step in the factory service manual. After everything is reassembled you pull up on the parking brake lever repeatedly until you no longer hear the clicking sound of the brake adjusters.

Reply to
Daniel

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"ADJUSTMENTS All models are equipped with self-adjusting rear drum brakes. Under normal conditions, adjustment of the rear brake shoes should not be necessary. However, if an initial adjustment is required insert the blade of a brake adjuster tool or a screw driver into the hole in the brake drum and turn the adjuster slowly. The tension is set correctly if the tire and wheel assembly will rotate approximately 3 times when spun with moderate force. Do not over adjust the brake shoes. Before adjusting the rear drum brake shoes, make sure emergency brake is in the OFF position, and all cables are free. "

For the 96 it seems like the initial tension should be the star wheel being able to clock "approximately 3 times". And Daniel is right that afterwards the regular use of parking brake will automatically adjust itself.

As for your taking 3 clicks to get the parking brake to set, there is too little slack in the cable. Usually the cable stretches but is not adjusted unless you're sure the rear brake is properly adjusted first.

On parking cable adjustment, again on Autozone:

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"Before any adjustment is attempted, make sure that the rear brake shoe clearance is correct and that the automatic self adjuster is properly adjusted. 1. Pull the parking brake lever all the way up and count the number of clicks. The travel number should be between 5 to 8 clicks, if not perform the following steps."

So assume that your mechanic messed with the parking brake and shoe clearance, then following the proper procedure for the year to reset it.

Now have you asked the mechanic what he did? Maybe you should have him follow the repair manual since you paid for the work to be done right.

Reply to
johngdole

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