Different sensors will give a different voltage for a given O2
concentration. A Toyota vehicle is programmed for the voltages from a Toyota
sensor, not a BMW sensor. Now if there's a "universal" O2/voltage
relationship, then any sensor would work. However in the auto industry,
"universal" is a bad word.
The only thing that stops a Zirconia sensor being universal is the
connection to the car and how many wires they used.
The most common sensor is Zirconium. As they work like a battery the
voltage is fixed. No one short of God can change the voltage produced
and I doubt he has made any interventions to the laws of physics on
behalf of any car maker. When O2 is not present it generates voltage
like a good fully charged battery, O2 in the exhaust stops it
producing voltage just like a flat battery. Just like putting a zinc
and copper strip in a lemon, put them in get a voltage dry it out no
volts. Whatever manufacturing process is used the difference between
any two makers sensors (OEM or aftermarket) is not enough to change
the engines running. Whatever they tell or show you, no one using
Zirconia sensors uses the transient response, the ECU simply uses more
than 0.45v to detect rich mixture and less than 0.45v to detect weak.
Considering the cost and profit on 02 sensors and the size of the
aftermarket any demo by an OEM that their expensively repackaged Bosch
or NTK sensor is better than a aftermarket Bosch or NTK sensor is
highly suspect. I could fudge such a demo in any number of ways such
that an autoshop technician on a training day wouldn't have a clue
that they had come to see a sales pitch for O2 sensors. (If you have
ever had a free 'training' day then it's a 100% certainty that it was
all sales pitch or for legal reasons) You would need a degree in
physics or electronics and would have to strip my demo kit down -
including the voltage supplies for the heaters, oscilloscopes,
voltmeters and leads.
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Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!
Thanks for the explanation.
Do you have an opinion about replacement intervals for O2 sensors,
assuming no silicone based sealant contaminants, no carbon coating
from over rich condition, just normal mileage accumulating on an
engine in good condition?
£45 UK, as opposed to the beemer £94+VAT. No idea about toyota prices TBH.
Theres something to be said for getting the dealer part tho - might cost
more but at least you know it runs as it is meant to. Unless you are willing
to spend alot of time researching.
As I recall when I needed one the single wire unheated aftermarket was
$84 Cnd., the Toyota was $136. I would imagine a heated aftermarket
would be somewhere in between but I couldn't find one at the time.
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At times, the original part will actually be cheaper than say a
Purolator or Blue Streak or some other AM. I do admit that is not
usually the case. At times the original part price difference may be
only 10 percent higher or it may be 1000 percent.
For the most part, I stick to the AM, however there are times it is
much less hassle to get the original, which fits (usually) without any
Of course the day Toyota wanted $67 USD for an "exact fit" positive
battery cable, I paid $6 at the local NAPA store and got one that
unfortunately was six inches too long ;>0.
On 18 Apr 2004 09:34:13 -0700, email@example.com (Tim J. Johson)
It's a trade-off, I use both - and check factory and aftermarket on
most things before making the decision. The aftermarket part might be
10% of the OE part price, but if you have to spend an hour or two
making it fit the AM part isn't much of a deal after all. On the
oxygen sensors, I wouldn't bother with AM unless there was a huge
Sometimes it's worth paying the premium for OE parts to get an
installation that looks factory - things like fog light or cargo light
switches that match the rest of the dashboard controls exactly.
Or the Diesel pickup throttle pedal and throttle pull control I put
in my 88 Gasoline pickup - perfect for leaving the truck sitting
parked with lots of power-hungry electrical accessories running, like
a light bar, two-way radios... Pull the knob and dial up 1800 - 2000
RPM, and the alternator keeps cooking.
As long as you had a place to secure that six inches of slack
without it rubbing on something hot or moving, there's nothing wrong
with that at all. Six inches /short/, that's a problem.
--<< Bruce >>--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
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