009 vs. 010 points, and pointless ignition

The 010 has relatively high preload on the springs, maybe you could try to reduce it a little, so that advance would kick in earlier. A

For the various points-replacement manufacturers (Pertronix, Compufire, etc) the 009 is the lowest-common denominator and those systems are designed to be drop-in replacements for the 009.

Accordingly, any other distributor whose points are the same as those in an 009 MAY be able to use one of the points-replacement systems. This doesn't guarantee that it will work, but there's a chance.

For example I managed to fit a Compufire to an 021-905-205J bus distributor for use on my 1600DP. I first tried a Pertronics, but the mounting plate required the entire baseplate. While this is not a problem for an 009, a distributor with a vacume advance has the vacume control arm occupying part of the base plate.

http://63.230.74.177/baja/MVC-095F.JPG Now, the Compufire introduced a problem of it's own. The disk holding the four magnets caused the rotor to sit too high for the stock cap. I solved that by carefully taking some material off the bottom of the rotor.

http://63.230.74.177/baja/MVC-096F.JPG Loads of ignition system data available at

The off-idle hesitation is a common issue with distributors lacking a vacume-advance (such as the 009). Basically, a centrigal-only advance applies the spark advance only when engine RPMs increase. A vacume-advance applies some advance instantly when the throttle is opened to _help_ the engine make some power. The difference in drivability is amazing.

See:

yeah, i have a bone-stock buggy, and i'm looking mainly for crusing reliabilty. i've been reading that a vacuum advance is probably the way i should go, because its smoother and more predictable. i've also read that the 010's are harder to find, and i might be able to sell mine and get a newer one. if you were buying a new dizzy, which one would you get? here again, i'm just looking for reliability in a buggy that's driven on the weekends mainly. can i get anything for my 010?

i pulled it t>

What kind of carburator do you have? In order to use a vacume-advance distributor, you require a carb that has a vacume advance port. A stock carbs like the 34pict3, for example.

I think aircooled.net carries new SVDAs (Single Vacume, dual advance) distributors. An SVDA with a Compufire points replacement and a stock carb is tough to match both for drivability and reliability.

Max

Oh yeah. That 010? Some old school cal-look guys love them. There's a fellow named Glenn Miller that rebuilds 010s to like-new condition.

Max

Ack. Wrong Glenn.

I meant Glenn R> Oh yeah. That 010? Some old school cal-look guys love them. There's a

Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client:

pulled the 010 dizzy last night and the points look a little corroded. i assume the spec on these is the same as in the 009. the nylon bushing that rides on the shaft was also showing some wear. i'll have to look and see if my carb has a vacuum port. it might be on there and just plugged up. i did see that guy's website the other night looking around. he shows you how to rebuild an 010. i don't know if i want to bother with that or just sell and get a new one. i'll look on aircooled.net and see what they have to offer. thanks for all the tips though!

Hi,

The 010 is worse than the 009 for low speed hesitation - it's centrifugal and doesn't wake up until about 2500 RPM also, you're right sometimes the weights do get stuck. Personally I would junk it and put a standard vacuum advance dizzy on, you will get more mpg and more advance too. To set set the points accurately IMO you really need to use a dwell meter to take wear into account. The Pertronix pointless upgrade comes in two flavours, one for 009 and the other for vacuum advance. You will have to check/re-time the ignition timing after fitting it but it's well worth upgrading (make sure your coil has a ballast resistor before fitting it). VW always fitted vacuum advance dizzys to Type 1's! The only time you have to fit a non vac dizzy is if you use dual Webers 'cos they don't have a vac pipe connection, though you could get around it.

--Steve

So if my carb has a vacuum port on it, get a vacuum advance. Otherwise, getting a mechanical advance 009 would be pretty much the same as my 010, aside from the fact I could go with electronic ignition on the 009. I looked last night, and new mechanical/vacuum advance dizzies are much more expensive than the mechanical ones. Not sure why that is. I guess I'll look on thesamba for a used vacuum advance dizzy.

They are more expensive because there's more moving parts. Where are you located?

Max

The Pertronix in an 009 will work fine if you make sure you open the Pertronix up as wide as it will go. Forget any instructions you get with the Pertronix. I had the same problems you have, plus the car never felt like it was using all it's torque. I took the car to my office were we have a Electronics lab and the guys put it on a scope. The damn Pertronix is an after thought for a VW dizzy. In some cases you have to remove or cut the clip screw to get the correct gap. The best was just to open it up max. In my opinion the Mallory Unilite is the best dizzy and it comes in Vac or Mech. It was not an add on, it was made for exactly what it was designed to do and by the same manufacture.

Not cheap, about $250 but I got mine from ebay for $60 or you can buy a mechanical with out the Unilite but can add the module later and still come out ahead.

Joe

centrifugal

There are lots of different vacuum cans and each one is made to work with the amount of vacuum that a certain carb provides. You can't just assume one size fits all and stick one in there and get good performance.

A good mechanical advance distributor will work with any engine, because the advance needs of the engine are pretty much rpm dependent.

Getting both is the best bet, but again you have to have the right vacuum advance for YOUR carb.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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