20v 0r 10v 850/ v70

Not sure about the 2.4 but stay away from the 10v 2.5 theya re the only varient that has an odd exhaust where the flexible joint is an intergal part of the manifold rather than a bolt on flange. It is VERY expensive when it need replacing. I think you can guess how I found this out :-((

Go for the 2.5 Ltr light pressure turbo. A lot of torque at low revs means pulling power. BR Carl

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I agree, but that said the 2.5 10v is one of the more common engines found in the 850 / 70 series. But yes the flexy joint can be abit of an expensive repair when it goes. (have a '97 S70 w/ 70k and ok so far!)

All the 5cylinders are trouble free given proper servicing- they're all basically tough and will do about 200k+ without bother (with 5k oil changes)

Occasional headgasket problems after a big mileage on cars which havent had regular coolant changes or where the cooling fan resistor pack has packed up and they've cooked in traffic.

From a driving point of view the 2.4T (low pressure turbo, 193/200bhp) is by far the best drive, effortless power and lots of torque to haul a fully loaded estate about with ease. They're no more juicy than a NA which will have to work harder. Turbo's last well and dont often give problems. Again fresh oil is the key.

Avoid both 2 litre units, the 10v is woefully underpowered, and the 20v makes no real power until after 4500rpm- its hard work to drive.

If you're not in a big hurry, dont load the car that often or carry lots of passengers and prefer a manual the 2.5 10 (145bhp) is adeqaute, its pretty torquey and gives surprising go when roused-with 30-34mpg economy. 100mph unlaiden is an easy crusing speed.

If you want an auto, or carry some loads or tow, the 2.5 20v (170bhp) is the minium I'd want. This is very very slightly heavier on fuel than the 10v, and where both drive pretty much identically upto 5000rpm, the 20v has alot more go past there, the 10 runs out of breath.

Bear in mind the auto has no specified fluid change interval and many 'boxes fail at around 100-150k miles because of this. If you want it to last get a lowish mileage one and change the fluid every 20k or so. This is a fairly easy operation for any half competitant mechanic.

When checking a car, look for instant start hot or cold, no blue smoke from the exhaust and the hydraulic valve lifters should be silent. Accept a brief tap tap tap at cold start, which should vanish within acouple of seconds, especially on 20valvers. If it goes on for any longer, find another car. Be guided more on condition and service history, rather than mileage.

The other weak spot on cars of this era is air con evaporator leaks. Check the air con blows cold and that the compressor clutch doesnt cycle too quickly (indicating its short of gas) Changing the evap is a dash out £500 job for someone who's done it before.

Hope this helps.

Tim..

I have had most of the range now and have used it to tow all sorts. What I think is;

2.5l 20v is the best all rounder, I found that both the 10v and 20v 2.0l were sluggs as an auto, ok solo in a Manuel. The turbo can be expensive to sort out as it has some parts only found on that engine. All have covered over 150thou without trouble. Though do go for one with history as driveshafts and the front end takes a beating. One of the 4x4 would be nice for towing but again can be very expensive to fix. Me, now I run a late 960 as I needed the higher weight capacity. This has only dine 195thou and just passed its mot with a new windscreen and a couple of bulbs!

John

Thanks to all for advice sounds like the 20v 2.5 auto is the answer.My present car is a 91 740 2.4 diesel auto 250 k and its only real fault so far is tattiness.The headlining collapsed and the vw engine has always been a head turner noise wise especially when started in a cul de sac early in the morning :-) Thing is it just goes..(.although not much good for towing now ) and why the heck did they turn to FWD. I shall miss the rwd

Thanks