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86 volvo 240 dl wagon - alternator?

I checked the bulb and it was dead, so I replaced it, but it does not illuminate when key is in run before turning to start. - actually the parking brake buld and brakefailure buld do not light either. I wonder if the instrument panel is defective? I saw a mail connector with notithing connected to it on the back of the panel - is that normal? john

----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Shannon" Newsgroups: alt.autos.volvo Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 9:56 AM Subject: Re: 86 volvo 240 dl wagon

> > now that I think of it, I wonder if the dash bulb is burned out for the > > battery/alternator indicator. > > I don't see it on when I turn the key to run with the engine off. > > john > > > > You're on to something there John. The only time I've ever been stranded in > a Volvo was because I didn't notice the alternator light was not coming on > with the key in the run position before starting the motor. In my case it > was a failed voltage regulator with plenty of brushes but bad internals. > With a new alternator your issue is more likely the bulb or the small > exciter wire to the alternator as Arnold described. How is the engine > harness on your car, any flaking insulation as was so common on the '80-87 > Volvos? \ > Good luck tracking it down, you are on the right track. > Dave Shannon > snipped-for-privacy@cox.net (Spring Valley CA) > 1988 240 DL 18X,XXX > 1985 240 Ti 20X,XXX > 1984 245 DL 20X,XXX > 1984 245T 19X,XXX > '01 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 10K >
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Reply to
John Cadella
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Reply to
John Cadella

John, at this time you do not need an ammeter, because your alternator is not charging, just by measuring Voltage across the battery you should be able to know if your alternator is working (14V) or not.

As far as the Ammeter, there are several ways to go about it. Fluke has an inductive clamp (hall effect based) that allows you to measure DC current without breaking the wire. If you want a gauge in your car, you do not place it in series with the alternator wire, because that way you will only measure current out of the alternator, not necessarily into the battery.

The right place for the ammeter would be right at he battery post, leave the heavy wire to the starter motor and connect your meter in series with the battery + and the other red wires, that way you can see either positive current ( alternator supplying all the electrical load and battery charging) or negative current (battery supplying the electrical load and discharging). You could consider a remote shunt and an electrical meter inside the car.

by the way, did you try the lightbulb to the alternator trick I suggested at least 3 times?

Arnold

Reply to
Arnold Perez

I'll try the bulb when I get back from vacation. I work 2 jobs and have 2 kids to take care of. I am not intentionally ignoring your suggestion, but I get home from work at

1am, it leaves little time for testing circuits. regards, john

discharging).

Reply to
John Cadella

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